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Chrome-plated cased pin-pallet lever wrist-watch with black leather strap — view 1 of 2
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Wristwatches · Wrist-watch

Chrome-plated cased pin-pallet lever wrist-watch with black leather strap

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Timex (Made by (attributed))
Date
1947–1953
Country of origin
North America
Place
United States, Japan (bracelet)
Object type
Wrist-watch
Materials / technique
chromium, metal
Dimensions
Diameter: 23 millimetres (bezel) Diameter: 19.30 millimetres (dial) Length: 200 millimetres Thickness: 10.40 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1983,1012.194
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Chrome-plated cased pin-pallet lever wrist-watch with black leather strap (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1983,1012.194), this is a wrist-watch attributed to Timex, made in United States, Japan (bracelet), North America, dated 1947–1953. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: chromium, metal. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 23 millimetres (bezel) Diameter: 19.30 millimetres (dial) Length: 200 millimetres Thickness: 10.40 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Wrist-watch. Movement with brass plates and pin-pallet lever escapement. Silvered dial with picture of Snow White; Arabic hour numerals. Hour and minute hands. Chromium-plated case with snap-on back. Black leather wrist-strap.

Curator's comments — British Museum

Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) Made by Timex U. S. A., c. 1960 A wrist watch with Snow White on the dial and a pin pallet lever escapement Signature: 'US TIME' on the case back in a rectangular cartouche. Case: A two piece tonneau case with a chrome plated front and a stainless steel back. A black leather strap with on the back 'Selected Leather' and a chrome plated buckle. Dial & Hands: A silvered metal dial with black Arabic numerals signed 'Made in U.S.A.' and with a copyright inscription 'W.D.P.' Stretching across the dial in polychrome is an effigy of Snow White. The dial is retained by four tags. Blued steel hands. Movement: Ebauche Marks: None. Frame: Full plate movement with a gilt finish. Barrel and Mainspring: The barrel without a cover the back plate retains the spring. Going Barrel: I. diameter 9.4 mm., height 2.0 mm. Mainspring: height 2.0 mm., thickness 0.11 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 2.4 mm., not snailed. The arbor is steel with a brass head. Hooking: Pressed in from the barrel wall. Train: The brass wheels gilded, the centre wheel, third and fourth wheels with four crossings. The escape wheel with three. Jewelling: No jewels. Cone bearings to the balance working in steel cups that in the front plate being adjustable. Escapement: An obtuse angle layout pin pallet lever escapement with short lever, effectively a double roller with a round steel pin set in the balance arm. A brass lever with steel pins. A brass escape wheel with three arms. An equal impulse escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: a monometallic balance with a plain rim. Balance diameter 8.10 mm., thickness 0.5 mm. A blued-steel flat spiral spring with 12 turns. Means of Regulation: An index on the back plate registers against a divided scale with 'F' and 'S' stamped on the back plate. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel 68 (barrel) Centre wheel 64 pinion 10 Third wheel 60 pinion 8 Fourth wheel 72 pinion 8 Escape wheel 15 pinion 8 Beat rate: 16,200 Motion work: cannon pinion 8 minute wheel 24, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Winding System: Stem set rocking bar keyless work. Dimensions: Case: Width 23.1 mm., length over the lugs 33.7 mm. Movement: length 24 mm., height 6.3 mm. Provenance: Donated by the Heron Corporation in 1983.

Inscriptions & marks

inscription; US TIME [case-back]; inscription; DWP MADE IN USA [dial]

Provenance

Donated by:, Heron Corporation

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Identification Centre

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