Identification & research centre
Identify, date and understand a timepiece
Decision tree
Which escapement does my watch have?
Look through the caseback at the balance. Is there a large flat crown wheel with teeth standing up at right angles (often under a pierced, decorated cock)?
Reading movement & case numbers
Movement and case serial numbers were usually applied independently, often by different firms. A match between the two is good evidence of originality; a mismatch can indicate a recased watch but is also normal for many Swiss and American products where cases were bought separately.
- Record the movement number from the pillar plate or a bridge.
- Record every number inside the caseback, including hallmarks and case-maker marks.
- Compare with published manufacturer serial tables, noting that many tables are approximate.
Hallmarks & metal purity
| Mark | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Lion passant | British sterling silver (.925) |
| 18 / .750 | 18-carat gold |
| Helvetia / squirrel / grouse | Swiss control marks (silver/gold, from 1880) |
| Owl / eagle's head | French control marks for small silver / gold items |
British date letters identify the assay office and year; Swiss and French marks indicate purity but not date.
Authentication & originality
- Redial — refinished or reprinted dial. Look for soft printing, misaligned text, and fresh lume next to aged hands.
- Recased — movement fitted to a case it did not leave the factory in.
- Marriage / composite — parts from different watches combined.
- Counterfeit — made to deceive; often betrayed by finishing and engraving quality.
Estimating a manufacturing period
Combine several clues rather than trusting one: escapement type, winding system (key or keyless), dial material (enamel, metal), hand style, case construction and hallmarks. Each narrows the range; together they usually date a watch to within a few decades.