Identification centre
Photo identifier
Add a photo of your timepiece
Drag a photo here, or choose one. The dial straight on works best.
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Your photo is sent to an AI model for this one analysis and is not kept by the Atlas. Please avoid photos showing people, documents or addresses.
How it works
- 1Add a clear photoDial straight on, or the movement with the case open. One object per photo.
- 2The model describes what it can seeCase, dial, hands, winding, visible movement parts and any legible signature — each marked by how clearly the photo shows it.
- 3The Atlas finds comparisonsCatalogue records that share those features and period, each with the reason it was chosen.
- 4You check the evidenceUse the identification guides and hallmark tables to confirm or correct the result.
Before you start
Photographs that identify a timepiece
The same set of photographs museum cataloguers ask for. Start with the first; each extra view narrows the result.
- 1Dial straight on, in even light, without reflections
- 2Case back, outside and inside, with all marks legible
- 3Movement straight on and at an angle, showing the escapement
- 4Close-ups of every signature, number and hallmark
- 5Side views of the case, pendant, crown and bow
- 6Hands and dial edge close-up (for redial and replacement checks)
- 7A ruler or scale in at least one picture
Limits
What a photograph cannot settle
- Originality
- A photo cannot show whether the dial, hands, case or movement are original to each other. Marriages and replacements are common in antique watches and clocks.
- Authenticity
- Signatures and brand names can be added or copied. Treat a legible name as a lead to check, never as proof.
- Hidden evidence
- Escapement, calibre, serial numbers and hallmarks are usually inside the case. Without them, dating stays a range.
- Condition and value
- Running order, wear and restoration need the object in hand. The Atlas does not give valuations.
Questions
Is my photo stored?
No. The photo is resized in your browser, sent once to an AI model for the analysis, and not saved by the Atlas. The model service used keeps no copy of the request.
How accurate is it?
It is good at describing what is visible — case form, dial, hands, winding, visible movement parts — and at reading clear signatures. Dates are estimates from style and are given as a range. Every feature is marked by how clearly the photo shows it.
Why are the suggested records different from my piece?
They are comparisons chosen from the features, maker and period the model found, so you can see similar objects with full catalogue details. They are not claimed to be the same object or model.
What photo works best?
One object per photo, in even daylight, without reflections: the dial straight on first, then the movement with the case open, then any marks inside the case back.
Prefer to work it out yourself? Use the escapement and clock-type decision trees, hallmark tables and dating clues.
