
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Zenith El Primero, A Triple Calendar and Moonphase with Chronograph, 18k, Limited Edition, circa 1991
- Maker / attribution
- Zenith (maker)
- Date
- c. 1991
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 47 mm
- Stock no.
- vws1623
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws1623)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Zenith El Primero - A Triple Calendar and Moonphase with Chronograph - 18k - c.1991 – Limited Edition***NOW SOLD*** (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws1623), this is a wristwatch by Zenith, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1991. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 47 mm. The record is illustrated with 5 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
We Are Sorry But This Watch Is Now Sold - If However, You Are Looking To Buy Or Sell Something Similar Then Please Email Sales@Vintagewatchspecialist.Com Or Whatsapp/Call +44 7831 454658. Thanks A Very Rare - Zenith El Primero, Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronograph 18k Wristwatch - c.1991 – A Limited Edition - Quickset - No.23 of only 250 Produced and Sold Worldwide! Established in 1865, Zenith is one of the longest established watchmakers in the world and one of the few that still produce their own mechanical movements. In 1969 Zenith produced one of if not the world’s first automatic chronograph, the El Primero. This movement was the masterstroke for Zenith, so much so that 20 years later, when Rolex was looking for a more advanced movement for their chronograph Daytona, the El Primero was chosen. This movement can accurately measure time to 1/10th of a second and even today very few chronographs are capable of achieving this. The first Triple Calendar, Moonphase Chronograph was introduced by adding these functions to its self-winding El Primero Chronograph movement for this very limited edition watch. This magnificent watch made its retail debut in the very early 1990s and hails from a production run of only 250 pieces ever made, making it one of the rarest and most desirable chronographs ever produced. What’s On Offer This limited edition model, number 23 of only 250 ever made - the stunning dial is signed as such - was released to coincide with the celebration of the 700th Anniversary of the Swiss Confederation in 1991. The watch boasts 7 functions: 1. Chronograph accurate to 0.10 sec, 2. Day, 3. Date, 4. Month, 5. Quickset, 6. Moonphase, 7. Self-Winding movement. Recently serviced, all functions are in excellent working order. The case is in almost perfect condition, completely scratch free, the lugs have retained their sharp edges and appear almost new. The chronograph pushers are also in immaculate condition, indicating the watch has seen very little use. The case back is correctly signed ‘Zenith’ and ‘Swiss Made’ with the model number 30.0220 410 and an 18K hallmark, it also carries a map of Switzerland and the inscription ‘700 ans Confédération Helvétique’ denoting the 700th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation. Offered for sale with its original black Zenith crocodile strap and original Zenith 18k gold pin buckle, this beautiful and very rare watch comes complete with box and paper and Chronometre Certificate and is in pristine condition. This really is a rare opportunity to acquire something rather exceptional and a great investment piece. Additional information Made From Case: 18k Yellow Gold Dial: Satin Ivory Crystal: Sapphire Crystal Bracelet: Original Zenith Black Crocodile Technical specifications Winding: Automatic/Manual Movement Type: Mechanical Automatic Calibre: 410 Jewels: 31 Waterproof: n/a Power reserve: Approx. 50hrs Purchase Details Condition: 9.5/10 Model Reference Number: 30.0220 410 Date of issue: c.1991 Guarantee: 12 months by VWS Dimensions Width: 39.5 Lug width: 21.5 Lug height: (lug to lug) 47mm Wrist size: Adjustable
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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