Audemars Piguet Huitieme Perpetual Calendar, ref. 25696PT, circa 1990 — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet Huitieme Perpetual Calendar, ref. 25696PT, circa 1990

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1990
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
platinum
Dimensions
circa 40mm
Lot
Lot 371-17
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 17
Catalogue title (original)
AUDEMARS PIGUET, SWISS MADE, REF. 25696PT, HUITIEME PERPETUAL CALENDAR, PLATINUM

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 371-17), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: platinum. Recorded dimensions: circa 40mm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A very fine and rare, platinum case, self winding wristwatch with silver dial, perpetual calendar, moon phase,

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Case No.: D25680; Signature: case, dial and movement

Provenance

property of an American collector

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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