Audemars Piguet ''couteau'', circa 1960 — view 1 of 3
View 1 of 3 · Image: Antiquorum Genève SA · original image source

Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Audemars Piguet ''couteau'', circa 1960

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (brand / maker)
Date
circa 1960
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
45 mm. ; weight 35 gr.
Lot
Lot 381-80
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 80
Catalogue title (original)
AUDEMARS PIGUET, SWITZERLAND, ''COUTEAU'', ULTRA THIN DRESS WATCH RETAILED BY GÜBELIN, 18K YELLOW GOLD

View the source record (auction lot) ↗

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 381-80), this is a pocket watch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated circa 1960. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: 45 mm. ; weight 35 gr. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A very fine and elegant, 18k yellow gold, manual wind open face ultra-thin pocket watch, retailed by Gübelin

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Caliber: 37 mm., rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted to eight positions, blued steel flat balance-spring, index regulator.; Case No.: 10868; Movement No.: 47838; Signature: Dial, case and movement

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

After 1945 the pocket watch became a niche product — presentation and railway watches, inexpensive pin-lever watches, and commemorative pieces — while most innovation moved to the wrist.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementFuseeIdentification Centre

Related records