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Stainless-steel cased self-winding lever wrist-watch with stainless-steel expanding bracelet — view 1 of 1
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Wristwatches · Calendar watch

Stainless-steel cased self-winding lever wrist-watch with stainless-steel expanding bracelet

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Seiko (Made by)
Date
1957–1963
Country of origin
Japan
Place
Japan
Object type
Calendar watch
Materials / technique
steel
Dimensions
Diameter: 38 millimetres (bezel)
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1986,1024.2
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Stainless-steel cased self-winding lever wrist-watch with stainless-steel expanding bracelet (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1986,1024.2), this is a calendar watch by Seiko, made in Japan, dated 1957–1963. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: steel. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 38 millimetres (bezel). The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Wrist-watch. Twenty-one jewelled movement with automatic winding and lever escapement. Black metallic dial with stainless-steel hour batons and a circle for the minutes marked every fifth minute with a luminous-painted dot; rectangular aperture to right shows day of week and date. Stainless-steel hands with luminous-painted bands. Stainless-steel case with screw-on back. Stainless-steel expanding bracelet.

Curator's comments — British Museum

Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) Made by Seiko Watch Co. Japan, c. 1960 Self wound wrist watch with day date and a club tooth lever escapement. Signature: On the dial 'SEIKO' and the Seiko trade mark also 'AUTOMATIC 21 JEWELS JAPAN 6119 8160T AD'. On the self winding bridge 'SEIKO 21 JEWELS JAPAN 6119B'. Case: A two part stainless steel case with a screw back. On the outside of the back is 'SEIKO STAINLESS STEEL 6119-8160 WATER PROOF 802285 JAPAN. J'. The sight ring is black and has minute marks. At the five minute marks there are luminous dots. Dial and Hands: A grey dial with rhodium plated batons filled with luminous paint. An aperture for the day and date indication with its surround rhodium plated. The day dial is printed in English has the inscription "C RING" which is repeated in Japanese and the number 870 610 T", it is only 0.075mm. thick and is finished silver with a black days of the week but with 'SUN' in red. The dial ring for the dates is in black with white numerals. Rhodium plated baton hour and minute hands, skeletonised and filled with luminous paint. The rhodium plated centre seconds hand has a skeletonised tip also filled luminous. Movement: Ebauche Marks: none. Frame: A nickel silver movement. A bridge for the barrel and another for the train, a cock for the centre wheel, a bridge for the pallets and a cock for the balance. Barrel and Mainspring: A recessed cover to the barrel. Barrel: I diameter 11.2 mm., height 1.0 mm. Mainspring: height 1.0 mm., thickness 0.09 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 2.8 mm., snailed. Hooking: A slipping mainspring with the outer turn of the spring reinforced by a single turn of thicker spring. Train wheels of brass, gilded. The centre, third, and escape wheels (this latter steel) with five crossings, the fourth wheel with six. Jewelled: from the centre onwards the jewels pressed in, endstones to the escape wheel. Shock protected bearings to the balance of the KIF type but known in this watch as the "Diashock Shock Resistant Device". Escapement: A straight line layout club tooth escapement, short lever, double roller, the impulse pin D shaped. The pallet stones exposed with flat acting faces. The escape wheel of steel. Solid bankings on the pallet bridge. A mixed escapement. Number of teeth embraced 3 ½. Balance & Spring: a four arm monometallic balance with brass screws. Balance diameter 11.7 mm., thickness 0.4 mm. A 'self compensating' flat spiral spring with 13 ¾ turns. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with + and - engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel 84 (barrel) Centre wheel 75 pinion 12 Third wheel 64 pinion 8 Fourth wheel 96 pinion 10 Escape wheel 15 pinion 8 An unusual train. Beat rate 21,600 Motion work: cannon pinion 12 minute wheel 36, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Self Winding System: The weight runs on a ball race and is eccentrically mounted. It carries a ratcheting lever which has click terminations that, as the weight revolves, alternatively pull and push on the fine tooth ratchet wheel. This latter wheel carries a pinion which meshes directly with the barrel ratchet wheel. Day and Date work: the hour wheel of 32 drives a pinion* of 16 so that this revolves once in a ¼ of a day. This pinion is integral with another of 12 leaves which in turn drives the calendar indexing wheel of 48, thus this revolves once a day. A cam* on the indexing wheel propels the date ring. * In registration no. 1986,0509.2 these two pieces were made of a plastic material. Winding System: Conventional positive stem set keyless work but there is no winding pinion so no provision for manual winding, only hand setting. Dimensions: Case: Diameter 38.0 mm., height 11.3 mm.(over the glass) Movement: Diameter 26.7 mm., height 7.5 mm. Provenance: Purchased in 1986 with the aid of funds provided by Stanley H. Burton. Note: for an almost identical example see registration no. 1986,0509.2.

Inscriptions & marks

signature; SEIKO S Automatic 21 JEWELS JAPAN 6119-8160TAD [dial]; signature; SEIKO 21 JEWELS JAPAN 6119B [back]

Provenance

Donated by:, HRH Prince Richard, Duke of Gloucester

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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