
Wristwatches · Centre-seconds watch
Stainless steel cased, 17 jewel, centre-seconds club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black dial and luminous hands and batons and stainless steel bracelet
- Maker / attribution
- Smiths (as 'Smiths Clocks & Watches Ltd ') (Made by)
- Date
- 1969
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- England
- Place
- England
- Object type
- Centre-seconds watch
- Materials / technique
- steel
- Dimensions
- Diameter: 35.30 millimetres
- Holding institution
- British Museum
- Accession / object no.
- 1989,0406.14
- Credit line
- British Museum, London
- Catalogue title (original)
- Stainless steel cased, 17 jewel, centre-seconds club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black dial and luminous hands and batons and stainless steel bracelet (English)
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Record summary
Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1989,0406.14), this is a centre-seconds watch by Smiths (as 'Smiths Clocks & Watches Ltd '), made in England, dated 1969. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: steel. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 35.30 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Description — British Museum
Movement with club-tooth lever escapement. Black-painted metal dial with outer minute circle with luminous-painted marks at the hours, larger triangle at 12; Arabic hour numerals 1-11. White-painted centre-seconds hand; luminous-painted hour and minute hands. Stainless-steel case with screw-on back; inside back is a 'Faraday box' to protect the movement from magnetic influences. Stainless-steel bracelet.
Curator's comments — British Museum
Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) SMITHS England, c. 1969 Wrist Watch with a club tooth lever escapement Signature: On the dial 'SMITHS', a T in a circle and 'MADE IN ENGLAND'. Also on the dial is the government broad arrow. Case: A stainless steel case with a screw back and an armoured glass. Crudely engraved by hand on the case back is the following: W10/6645-99-961-4045 6371/68 and the broad arrow.(1) Covering the movement is a magnetic cup shaped shield, with the dial also acting as part of the Farraday box that shields the watch from magnetism. Dial & Hands: A black dial with white Arabic numerals except at the 12 which is marked by a luminised triangular dot. Also luminised batons at 3 6 and 9 o'clock with a larger baton at the 12. Also luminous dots at the 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11. Luminised skeleton hands and a white centre seconds hand. Movement: The movement is gilded brass and the barrel bridge is marked '17 JEWELS MADE IN ENGLAND'. Ebauche Marks: On the inside of the front plate is 108. The movement is also numbered 60466E. Frame: A bridge for the barrel centre wheel and keyless work, one for the train with a cock for the third wheel lower pivot and centre seconds pinion. A cock for the pallets and one for the balance. Barrel and Mainspring: A recessed cover to the going barrel. Barrel: I diameter 10.4 mm., height 1.75 mm. Mainspring: height 1.65 mm, thickness 0.13 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 3.6 mm., snailed. Hooking: Milled from the barrel wall. Train: All the wheels gilded, the centre, third and fourth wheels with five crossings. The steel escape wheel with four. Jewelling: Jewelled bearings from the third wheel onwards, but additionally with the centre hole in the barrel bridge jewelled, all the jewels pressed in. 'Kif' shock protected bearings for the balance. The pallet pivot jewels and the lower third jewel are bombé. Escapement: A straight line layout club tooth lever escapement with short lever, double roller and D-shaped impulse pin. The exposed pallet stones have flat acting faces. A steel escape wheel with four crossings. An equidistant locking escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: a monometallic balance with a plain rim. Balance diameter 9.57 mm., thickness 0.62 mm. A 'self compensating' flat spiral spring with 15 turns. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with '+' and '-' engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel 96 (barrel) Centre wheel 75 pinion 12 Third wheel 64 pinion 10 On the third pinion is also mounted a wheel of 60 to drive the centre seconds pinion of 12. This latter is constrained by a drag spring. Fourth wheel 60 pinion 8 Escape wheel 15 pinion 6 Beat rate 18,000 Motion work: cannon pinion 10 minute wheel 30, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Winding System: Conventional positive stem set keyless work. The watch has a hacking feature which stops the balance when the hands are being set. Dimensions: Case: Diameter 35.2 mm., height 12.1 mm., over the glass. Movement: diameter 27 mm., height 7.1 mm. Provenance: Purchased in 1989 with the aid of funds from the Dingwall Bequest. Note: (1) On the back of a similar watch in the author's private collection is a similar watch but with the engraving done by machine, as has the back shown in the article mentioned below. Literature: See A. Taylerson 'Watches Issued to the British Armed Forces 1870 - 1970,2' HJ October 1995 p. 334. The watch illustrated in this article has the same general number on the back but its serial number is 2517/69.
Inscriptions & marks
inscription; case back; W10/6645-99-961-4045 ^ 6371/68; signature; dial; SMITHS T ^; inscription; plates; MADE IN ENGLAND 108 17 JEWELS 60466E; inscription; bracelet clasp; 100% STAINLESS STEEL
Provenance
Purchased from:, William Skeen
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Identification Centre
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