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Gold and Enamel Chatelaine Repeating Virgule, c. 1790 — view 1 of 6
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Gold and Enamel Chatelaine Repeating Virgule, c. 1790

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
c. 1790
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gold, enamel
Stock no.
Product 4697
Credit line
Dealer listing, WatchMuseum.org shop (product 4697)
Catalogue title (original)
Gold and Enamel Chatelaine Repeating Virgule (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by WatchMuseum.org shop (stock number Product 4697), this is a pocket watch, dated c. 1790. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold, enamel. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — WatchMuseum.org shop

The “Gold and Enamel Chatelaine Repeating Virgule - Circa 1790” is a remarkable testament to the exquisite craftsmanship of Swiss watchmaking from the late 18th century, embodying both technical ingenuity and artistic elegance. This extraordinary timepiece is distinguished by its quarter repeating mechanism, housed in a breathtaking gold and enamel consular case that exudes opulence and sophistication. Accompanied by a matching chatelaine, the watch is not only a functional piece but also a statement of timeless elegance and charm. At its heart lies a full plate gilt fusee movement, meticulously crafted with a finely pierced and engraved bridge cock, embellished with a garnet endstone. The balance wheel, a plain three-arm gilt, is complemented by a blue steel spiral hairspring and a silver regulator dial with a blue steel indicator. What truly sets this watch apart is its rare virgule escapement, paired with a large brass escape wheel, showcasing the innovative spirit of its era. The timepiece also features a push pendant dumb quarter repeater, a sophisticated function that allows the wearer to activate the striking of hours and quarters on two separate blocks within the case by simply pressing the pendant. The dial, crafted from white enamel, is a masterpiece in itself, featuring Roman numerals at the quarters and Arabic numerals in between, with intricately crafted gold hands that complete the watch’s refined aesthetic. This watch is not just a chronometer but a piece of history, reflecting the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry and the luxurious tastes of its time. This exquisite timepiece is a Swiss virgule watch from the late 18th century. It features a quarter repeating mechanism and is housed in a stunning gold and enamel consular case. The watch is accompanied by a matching chatelaine, adding to its elegance and charm. The watch boasts a full plate gilt fusee movement, with a finely pierced and engraved bridge cock that is adorned with a garnet endstone. The balance wheel is plain and three-arm gilt, featuring a blue steel spiral hairspring. The silver regulator dial is complemented by a blue steel indicator. What sets this watch apart is its rare virgule escapement, which is coupled with a large brass escape wheel. The watch also features a push pendant dumb quarter repeater, which can be activated by pressing the pendant. This repeater function strikes the hours and quarters on two separate blocks within the case. The dial of the watch is made of white enamel and showcases Roman numerals at the quarters, with Arabic numerals in between. The hands of the watch are intricately crafted from gold. The consular case, made of gold and enamel, is adorned with a dark blue translucent enamel over an engine turned ground. The bezel and back of the case are set with a row of large split pearls. The back of the case is further embellished with white metal decoration set with diamonds. The watch is wound through the enamel dial, which adds to its unique design. The watch is accompanied by a matching chatelaine, which is a decorative accessory worn by women in the 18th century. The chatelaine features a gilt clip, embellished with gold and champlevé enamel. A central oval motif between two split pearls adorns the clip. The clip supports the watch on two short chains, alternating square links that are decorated with gold and translucent dark blue enamel, bordered in white. These chains terminate in a spring clip with a threaded safety collar. The center of the chatelaine features a gold and enamel bell, adorned with tassels of graduated pearls. This is supported by a row of pearls, adding to its luxurious appeal. The other side of the clip features a matching chain with two gold and enamel pearl-set rectangular cartouches, each centered around a split pearl. The lower cartouche is bordered by a row of split pearls and supports the accessories, which are presented on three further matching chains. The central chain is home to a matching gold and enamel oval key, while the outer chains feature smaller versions of the tassel motif seen at the center of the clip. This exceptional watch and chatelaine set is in excellent overall condition. It is remarkable that a virgule escapement repeater of this caliber, created for such a luxurious timepiece, is not signed by the maker. The accompanying red morocco covered case adds a final touch of elegance to this remarkable antique timepiece. Anonymous Swiss Circa 1790 Diameter 48 mm

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Repeating watches

Before electric light, telling the time in the dark was a real problem. Repeating watches strike the time on demand when a slide or push-piece is operated: quarter repeaters sound hours and quarters, minute repeaters hours, quarters and minutes. Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare disputed the invention in London in the 1680s. Early repeaters struck on a bell inside the case; Abraham-Louis Breguet introduced the gong (a coiled steel wire) around 1780, allowing thinner watches.

Repeaters require a separate train with racks, snails and a governor to control the striking speed, and are among the most demanding complications to make and adjust. Swiss makers of the Vallée de Joux specialised in repeating ébauches in the nineteenth century.

What to look for

  • A slide on the case band or a push-piece through the pendant.
  • Gongs encircling the movement (after c. 1780) or a bell in the case (earlier); pierced case for sound.
  • The racks, snails and governor visible under the dial or on the movement.
  • Terms such as 'Minutes', 'Quarts' or 'Répétition' on the dial or cuvette.

Dating clues

  • Bell-striking quarter repeaters: c. 1690–1800.
  • Gong repeaters and dumb repeaters (striking on the case): after c. 1780.
  • Minute repeaters became more common after c. 1830 with Vallée de Joux ébauches.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Minute repeater

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