
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Glycine Airman Special Automatic, ref. 323.1119, PAT. 314050, circa 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Glycine (maker)
- Date
- c. 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 36 mm
- Stock no.
- vws1790
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Vintage Watch Specialist (vws1790)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Glycine - Airman Special Automatic - Model Ref: 323.1119 - PAT. 314050 - c.1960s (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Vintage Watch Specialist (dealer), United Kingdom (stock number vws1790), this is a wristwatch by Glycine, dated c. 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Vintage Watch Specialist
A Handsome Glycine Airman 'Special' Automatic Model Ref: 323.1119, in Superb Condition with Stunning Black Dial and Big Arrow Hour Hand with Beautifully Aged Lume, c.1960s. With its Original Wooden Box and Paperwork! Glycine is a well-known watch brand from Switzerland. The brand is still popular today, and its vintage models are also very in demand. From its creation in 1914 until mid-'30s Glycine specialized in small-caliber manufacture. However, in 1953 they introduced the Airman line to the world after a conversation took place between Glycine's sales manager and a pilot during a flight in which he received feedback on what would comprise the perfect pilot’s watch. The most desirable feature was to be a 24-hour dial complete with an hour hand that only rotated around the dial once per 24 hours. A rotating 24-hour bezel was also part of the request as well as a hacking feature for synchronization. This means that when you pull the crown out on the Airman, the seconds hand will tick along and stop at 12, allowing for greater accuracy/ synchronisation. As well as pilots, the Airman was popular with frequent international travellers who appreciated the convenience of quick access to two timezones, once the second timezone is set, the bezel is locked in place by the crown at 4 o’clock. The case itself is a Compressor style with a snapback and features the synonymous crosshatched crown. It is interesting to note that prior to the very late 1960s, the USA imposed a tariff on imported watches based upon the number of jewels in the movement. Therefore, the brand produced the Glycine Airman "Special" with 17 jewels, allowing them to pass under the tariff bracket. The Airman became very representational of the Glycine brand and as such has a substantial following across the globe. What’s On Offer This handsome Glycine Airman is in really nice condition with its striking black dial boasting a big arrow hour hand complimented by a syringe style minute hand and lollipop sweep seconds hand , all with luminous inserts which have aged to a beautiful buttery hue. The lume on the hour plots is also intact as are the sharp Arabic numerals and completing the dial is the date wheel at 3 o'clock with cyclops. The case, locking bi-directional GMT bezel, and lugs are also in superb shape, original and unpolished with no concerning signs of wear. This watch is running well and keeping good time after having a full service, it also comes with original box and papers, and the all-important hack mechanism is working as it should! A rare opportunity to purchase such a collectible piece that was uniquely, solely produced for the American market. Additional information Made from Case: Stainless Steel Dial: Black Crystal: Plexiglass Bracelet: Brown Leather Strap with Pin Buckle Technical specifications Winding: Automatic Movement Type: Mechanical Caliber: AS.1903 Jewels: 17j Waterproof: No Power reserve: 44hrs Purchase details Condition: Excellent Model Reference: 323.1119 Date of issue: c.1960s Guarantee: 12 Months by VWS Dimensions Width (without crown): 36mm Lug width: 20mm Lug height: (lug to lug) 46mm Wrist size: Adjustable
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Automatic (self-winding) watches
Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.
What to look for
- A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
- 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
- A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.
Dating clues
- Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
- Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
- Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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