
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Glycine Airman Automatic, 1960s
- Maker / attribution
- Glycine (maker)
- Date
- 1960s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- GLYAIR60-2
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (GLYAIR60-2)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1960s Glycine Airman Automatic (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number GLYAIR60-2), this is a wristwatch by Glycine, dated 1960s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
Glycine was founded in 1914 and was originally known for making movements for women's watches and later for making chronometer-rated wristwatches, but not until the early 50s would Glycine finds its place in horological history with the Airman wristwatch. The Glycine Airman was a watch produced out of necessity for the encroaching "Jet Age" of the 1950s. The Airman was designed around the requests from international pilots themselves, a watch that was automatic with a 24-hour dial and date function with centralized hands and a rotating 24-hour bezel. Essentially this watch is a GMT allowing for the tracking of two different timezones, but the rotating bezel on the Airman could be locked into place using the break that is operated by the secondary crown at the 4 o'clock position on the case. This allowed the pilots to accurately calculate unique time zones that are in-between hourly intervals. The Glycine Airman also features a unique hacking system for the sweep-seconds hand to synchronize timing to the exact second. This is executed through a small wire that comes out of a small hole in the dial between the 2 and 4 of the 24-hour marker that is essentially invisible to the naked eye and is controlled by a lever system that is operated through the crown. The rudimentary hacking system and bezel locking mechanism just work perfectly, without being overly complicated. The hour hand being broad arrow and the minute and being syringe style is both very stylish and functional as it makes telling the time effortlessly. Everything about the Glycine Airman is charming, which is what makes it such a cult classic among collectors. Stock # GLYAIR60-2 Brand Glycine Style Airman Model N/A Serial 774XXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 36 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The wonderful compression-style case has been lightly polished in the past and retains very thick and even lugs. The original 24-hour bezel with locking mechanism functions perfectly and no longer retains its factory enamel though remains in excellent and honest condition. The case retains its original cross-hatch crown. The case back retains all of its original factory engravings, though slightly faded from wear. DIAL & HANDS The matte black 24-hour dial with Arabic numerals is in extremely well-preserved condition. The tritium lume plots have aged to a vivid yellow patina and exhibit no degradation when inspected under U.V. light. The original tritium hands have aged a few shades lighter than the dial but match the overall aesthetic of the watch. ACCESSORIES None. Watch is functioning and keeping time perfectly, previous service history is unknown.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Automatic (self-winding) watches
Self-winding watches use the wearer's motion to wind the mainspring. Abraham-Louis Perrelet and Breguet made 'perpétuelle' pocket watches with oscillating weights in the late eighteenth century, but the principle only became practical in the wristwatch. John Harwood patented a bumper automatic in 1923; Rolex's Perpetual rotor (1931) winding in one direction, and later bidirectional rotors (Eterna, Felsa Bidynator), established the modern form. Micro-rotors (Universal Genève, Buren) and peripheral rotors made automatic watches thinner.
What to look for
- A semicircular rotor turning 360° over the movement, or a 'bumper' weight that rebounds between springs.
- 'Automatic', 'Perpetual' or 'Self-winding' on the dial.
- A sealed screw-back case, since automatic watches are wound less often by the crown.
Dating clues
- Bumper automatics: 1923–c. 1955.
- Full rotors: from 1931 (Rolex); widespread after c. 1950.
- Micro-rotors: from 1954–1958.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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