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Gilt-brass and silver cased verge watch with erotic enamel and mock-pendulum balance — view 1 of 4
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Pocket Watches · Erotic watch

Gilt-brass and silver cased verge watch with erotic enamel and mock-pendulum balance

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Nicholas Bouquet (Made by)
Date
1690–1700
Country of origin
France
Place
Paris (France)
Object type
Erotic watch
Materials / technique
brass, gold, enamel, silver
Dimensions
Diameter: 54.20 millimetres (case) Diameter: 44.70 millimetres (dial) Thickness: 36.90 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1958,1201.252
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Gilt-brass and silver cased verge watch with erotic enamel and mock-pendulum balance (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1958,1201.252), this is an erotic watch by Nicholas Bouquet, made in Paris (France), dated 1690–1700. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: brass, gold, enamel, silver. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 54.20 millimetres (case) Diameter: 44.70 millimetres (dial) Thickness: 36.90 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Full-plate; fusee. Verge escapement; steel 3-arm balance, possibly replacing an original of larger diameter; sliding regulator with engraved scale on plate. Mock pendulum balance. Gilt-brass dial, hours I-XII, lozenge half-hour marks, quarters ring; sector aperture reveals 3 enamel portraits in succession followed by an erotic scene on a revolving disc beneath the dial. Blued-steel hand. Gilt-brass case with applied silver band and back engraved with scrolling foliage and masks, back opens to reveal movement. Painted enamel plaque depicting bust of woman in balance bridge.

Inscriptions & marks

inscription; NICOLAS BOVQVET [back-plate]; inscription; Nicolas; Bouquet [dial]

Provenance

Previous owner/ex-collection:, Courtenay Adrian Ilbert; Purchased through:, Christie's; Acquired 1958

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Verge and pair-cased watches

After Christiaan Huygens and Robert Hooke applied the balance spring around 1675, the verge watch became a reasonably reliable timekeeper and the minute hand became standard. Through the eighteenth century the typical English watch was a pair-cased verge: a fusee movement with a pierced, engraved balance cock, housed in an inner case and a separate protective outer case, often of repoussé gold, shagreen, tortoiseshell or enamel.

French watches of the same period were thicker 'oignons', later replaced by elegant thinner watches following Jean-Antoine Lépine's bar-bridge calibre of c. 1770. Dutch, Swiss and German makers supplied international markets, and verge watches were made until the mid-nineteenth century as cheaper alternatives to the cylinder and lever.

What to look for

  • The pierced balance cock on the backplate: winged (continental) or with a foot (English); its style dates the watch.
  • Fusee and chain visible through the movement; key winding through the dial (early) or case back.
  • Hallmarks inside English silver or gold cases, which give a date letter.
  • Maker's name and serial number engraved on the backplate; watch papers inside outer cases.
  • Enamel dials (after c. 1720) versus earlier champlevé metal dials.

Dating clues

  • Champlevé dials: c. 1680–1730; white enamel dials thereafter.
  • English case hallmarks give the year of assay to within a year.
  • Verge watches persisted in cheap production until c. 1850.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Balance spring (hairspring)Verge escapement

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