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Club-tooth lever wrist-watch in a gold case with black leather strap — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wrist-watch

Club-tooth lever wrist-watch in a gold case with black leather strap

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
American Waltham Watch Company (Made by); Dennison Watch Case Company (Case made by)
Date
1928 (case)
Country of origin
North America
Place
Waltham (Massachusetts), Birmingham (West Midlands)
Object type
Wrist-watch
Dimensions
Diameter: 23.50 millimetres (dial) Diameter: 28.50 millimetres (movement) Length: 280 millimetres (strap) Thickness: 8 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1987,1012.5
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Club-tooth lever wrist-watch in a gold case with black leather strap (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1987,1012.5), this is a wrist-watch by American Waltham Watch Company, made in Waltham (Massachusetts), Birmingham (West Midlands), North America, dated 1928 (case). The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 23.50 millimetres (dial) Diameter: 28.50 millimetres (movement) Length: 280 millimetres (strap) Thickness: 8 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Club-tooth lever wrist-watch in a gold case with black leather strap. Wrist-watch. Half-plate movement. Club-tooth lever escapement. White painted-metal dial with minute circle surrounding Arabic hour numerals; the 12 in red; subsidiary seconds. Blued-steel hands. Plain gold case with hinged back and snap-on glazed bezel. Black leather wrist-strap of later date.

Curator's comments — British Museum

Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) Made by Waltham Watch Co. U.S.A., c. 1907 Gold cased wrist watch with club tooth lever escapement. Signature: On the dial 'Waltham USA'. On the train bridge 'Waltham 17 JEWELS ADJ. TEMP'. On the barrel bridge 'Ruby USA 27'… 766836. Case: A 9ct. gold open face case hall marked Birmingham 1928. The case also marked in cameo A. L. D. and DENNISON WATCH CASE Co. Ltd. Also numbered 406015 and 6/0 NEW. The bezel and the band numbered 6015 with the band also with 9 375 in cameo. Dial & Hands: A painted brass dial with black Arabic numerals with a red 12. A sunk subsidiary seconds dial. The blued-steel hour hand is of spade design, the minute hand is missing. The seconds hand is blued-steel. Movement: Ebauche Marks: 766836. Frame: A nickel silver movement. A bridge for the barrel centre and third wheel, under this bridge is 766836. Another bridge for the fourth and the escape wheels. Cocks for the pallets and the balance, under the balance cock is 6837, presumably a mistake. Barrel and Mainspring: A plain arbor passes through the centre of the barrel, this is squared into the barrel ratchet wheel and into the barrel bottom. The great wheel carries the barrel arbor. Barrel: internal diameter 10.0 mm, height 1.55 mm. Mainspring: height 1.45 mm, thickness 0.11 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 3.15 mm, snailed. Hooking: Round. Train: All the brass wheels gilded, the centre wheel, third and fourth wheels with five crossings. The steel escape wheel with four. Jewelling: Jewelled bearings from the centre wheel onwards, all the jewels in gold chatons. Those for the centre in the bridge and in the balance cock are in screwed settings. Ruby endstones to the balance jewels. Escapement: A straight line layout, club tooth lever escapement with short lever, double roller and D-shaped impulse pin. The exposed pallet stones have flat acting faces. A steel escape wheel with convex impulse faces. A mixed escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: a split bimetallic balance with gold compensation and quarter screws. Balance diameter 10.45 mm., thickness 0.75 mm. A blued-steel flat spiral spring with 12 ¾ turns and a terminal curve. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with 'FS' engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel 68 (barrel) Centre wheel 64 pinion 10 Third wheel 60 pinion 8 Fourth wheel 70 pinion 8 Escape wheel: 15 pinion 7 Beat rate: 18,000 Motion work: cannon pinion 10 minute wheel 30, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Winding System: Negative set keyless work with a lever to put the keyless work into the wind position when the movement is out of the case. Dimensions: Case: Diameter 28.5 mm., height 7.8 mm.(over the glass) Movement: Diameter 24.7 mm., height 5.7 mm. Provenance: Purchased in 1987 with the aid of funds from the Dingwall Bequest.

Inscriptions & marks

signature; Waltham U.S.A. [dial, above centre]; signature; Waltham 17 Jewels ADJ.TEMP. USA. Ruby 27 166836 [movement back]; mark; 406015 6/0 NEW [case]; casemaker's mark; A.LD [case]; signature; DENNISON WATCH CASE Co.Ltd [case]; hallmark; Birmingham 1928 [case]

Provenance

Purchased from:, William Skeen

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Identification Centre

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