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Chrome-plated cased centre-seconds jewelled lever wrist-watch with alarm and and stainless steel bracelet — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Alarm watch

Chrome-plated cased centre-seconds jewelled lever wrist-watch with alarm and and stainless steel bracelet

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Sekonda (Made by)
Date
1962–1968
Country of origin
Russia
Place
USSR (historic)
Object type
Alarm watch
Materials / technique
steel
Dimensions
Diameter: 30 millimetres (dial) Diameter: 34.30 millimetres Thickness: 11.30 millimetres Width: 16.80 millimetres (bracelet)
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1989,0406.9
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Chrome-plated cased centre-seconds jewelled lever wrist-watch with alarm and and stainless steel bracelet (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1989,0406.9), this is an alarm watch by Sekonda, made in USSR (historic), Russia, dated 1962–1968. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: steel. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 30 millimetres (dial) Diameter: 34.30 millimetres Thickness: 11.30 millimetres Width: 16.80 millimetres (bracelet). The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Movement with club-tooth lever escapement. Metallic-blue painted dial with minute circle surrounding baton hour markers and alarm setting circle with luminous-painted dots at the hours. Stainless-steel hands; hour and minute hands with luminous-painted stripe; alarm-setting hand with arrow-head pointer and plain centre-seconds hand. Chrome-plated case with screw-on back and separate winding buttons for going and alarm trains; alarm hammer strikes small stud on inside of case-back. Stainless-steel bracelet.

Curator's comments — British Museum

Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) SEKONDA U.S.S.R., c. 1965 Centre seconds alarm wrist watch with a club tooth lever escapement. Signature: On the dial 'SEKONDA USSR 18 jewels'. Case: A chrome plated case with a stainless steel back held in position by a threaded ring. Care must be taken when the back is replaced to correctly align it as there is a post that protrudes inside the back for the alarm hammer to strike. A stainless steel bracelet marked 'STAINLESS STEEL'. There are two winding buttons, one for winding the going barrel and hand setting and the other for the winding the alarm barrel and setting the alarm hand. Dial & Hands: A brushed metal dial finished in a graduated blue colour and with a silvered minute circle, the minute marks in blue. Within the minute circle is an hour circle marked in black with ¼ hours. Applied raised hour batons slotted and filled luminous. Within this are luminous dots also marking the hours. The dial is secured by two screws in the side of the front plate. Silvered baton hands skeletonised and filled luminous. A silvered seconds hand and a silvered alarm hand with an arrow tip. Movement: The nickel silver movement is set into a ring to which it is secured by two screws. The parts finished by graining. Ebauche Marks: None. Frame: A bridge for the going barrel and keyless work with the number 7936759. A bridge for the alarm barrel and train. A further bridge for the train wheels marked '18 jewels'. Cocks for the balance and pallets. Barrel and Mainspring: The going barrel with a recessed cover. Barrel I diameter 9.4 mm., height 1.4 mm. Mainspring: height 1.35 mm., thickness 0.115 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 2.8 mm, snailed. Hooking: The spring furnished with a brace which is located in both the cover and the barrel bottom. Alarm Barrel and Mainspring: The alarm barrel with a recessed cover. Barrel I diameter 8.2 mm., height 1.8 mm. Mainspring: height 1.75 mm., thickness 0.09 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 2.3 mm, snailed. Hooking: The spring furnished with a brace which is located in both the cover and the barrel bottom. Train: All the wheels gilded, the centre wheel, third and fourth wheels with five crossings. The steel escape wheel with four crossings. Jewelling: Jewelled bearings from the third wheel onwards, all the jewels pressed in. Ruby endstones to the balance jewels. Escapement: A straight line layout, club tooth lever escapement with short lever, double roller and D-shaped impulse pin. The exposed pallet stones have flat acting faces. A steel escape wheel with four crossings. An equal impulse escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: a monometallic balance with brass screws. Balance diameter 9.9 mm, thickness 0.73 mm. A 'self compensating' flat spiral spring with 13 2/3 turns. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with '+' and '-' engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel 70 (barrel) Centre wheel 64 pinion 10 Third wheel 60 pinion 8 Fourth wheel 70 pinion 8 Escape wheel 15 pinion 7 Beat rate 18,000 Motion work: cannon pinion 12 minute wheel 32, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 36. Alarm Work: The hour wheel has three raised nibs which allow it to rise when they align with slots in the alarm wheel, thus through a lever releasing the alarm train. The hour wheel is biassed upwards by a long spring whose end impinges on a post in the alarm hammer. A bridge with two spring lugs provides restraint for the alarm wheel whose pipe carries the alarm hand, this wheel has 60 teeth. Great wheel 70 (barrel) Escape wheel 14 pinion 7 The hammer assembly consists of three parts; the pallets, the hammer and the stop post block. These three components are screwed and steady pinned together. Winding Systems: Conventional positive stem set keyless work for the going side. Rocking bar stem set keyless work for the alarm side with the hammer immobilised by a lever which comes into operation when the stem is in the hand set position. Dimensions: Case diameter 34.3 mm., height 11.2 mm., over the glass. Movement diameter 28.8 mm., height 8.2 mm. Provenance: Purchased in 1989 with funds from the Dingwall Bequest.

Inscriptions & marks

signature; SEKONDA 18 JEWELS USSR [dial]; inscription; 18 JEWELS 7936759 [movement plates]; inscription; STAINLESS STEEL [bracelet clasp]

Provenance

Purchased from:, William Skeen

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Identification Centre

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