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Bulova Accutron 'Breguet' Stainless Steel Dress Watch, 1970s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Bulova (maker)
Date
1970s
Country of origin
United States
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
stainless steel
Dimensions
Case 37 mm
Stock no.
40992737
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40992737)
Catalogue title (original)
Bulova Accutron 'Breguet' Stainless Steel Dress Watch (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40992737), this is a wristwatch by Bulova, made in United States, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: stainless steel. Recorded dimensions: Case 37 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

In 1960, Bulova had a vision of the future. And in that future, there was humming. The Accutron was the world's first electronic watch. About a decade before the infamous Quartz Crisis, Bulova put into production a timepiece that did away with the traditional balance wheel, favoring instead a tuning fork design — a 360-hertz steel tuning fork powered by electromagnets attached to a battery-powered transistor oscillator circuit — as its timekeeper. Designed by Max Hetzel, the Accutron made waves, becoming the first wristwatch precise enough to be qualified for U.S. Railroad certification, guaranteed to be accurate to about one minute per month, or roughly two seconds per day. While Bulova had grand plans for their watch of the future, it never anticipated the success that the uniquely appointed Spaceview — a transparent Accutron with a view into the unique movement beneath — would generate. From this watch, the Accutron grew into a large collection. And while its cool technology was soon eclipsed by that of the quartz movement, it nevertheless represents a unique period in horological history, with collectors snapping up examples of vintage Accutrons whenever and wherever they can get their hands on them. This particular Accutron, dating to the 1970s, mixes its futuristic tech with vintage-inspired cues: Measuring 37mm in a brushed stainless steel 'C'-shaped case, it features a 4:30 crown, a polished bezel, an acrylic crystal, a screw-down caseback, and a silver dial with applied 'Breguet' indices, an outer 'dot' minute track, and a matching 'baton' handset. Powered by an electronic Accutron movement and paired to a blue saffiano leather strap, this nifty timekeeper is perfect for the collector who appreciates both futurism as well as horological history. Subtle and cool, it would make an excellent, casual addition to any watch roll. Accutron Factory Certified Pre-Owned Analog:Shift is proud to be partnered with Accutron as the exclusive retailer for Factory Certified Pre-Owned timepieces. Our longstanding relationship and shared passion for horological history and design have culminated in this unique offering. Each Accutron timepiece undergoes rigorous inspection and certification by expert watchmakers and is backed by the manufacture, ensuring unparalleled authenticity and quality.

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Quartz, digital and electronic watches

Electronic watches arrived in three steps. The Hamilton Electric 500 (1957) was the first battery-powered wristwatch, still with a balance; Bulova's Accutron (1960) used a tuning fork. On 25 December 1969 Seiko released the Astron 35SQ, the first quartz wristwatch, closely followed by the Swiss Beta 21 group. In 1972 Hamilton's Pulsar introduced the LED digital watch, and LCD displays soon made digital watches cheap.

The 'Quartz Crisis' that followed devastated the Swiss mechanical industry, which lost two-thirds of its workforce between 1970 and 1984 before recovering with the Swatch (1983) and the luxury mechanical revival. Solar, radio-controlled, kinetic and connected smartwatches continue the electronic line.

What to look for

  • Battery hatch in the case back and calibre markings with 'Quartz' or a crystal frequency.
  • Display technology: LED (red, push-button) versus LCD (always-on).
  • Tuning-fork hum and a smoothly sweeping seconds hand on Accutrons.
  • Model and reference numbers, often printed on the back.

Dating clues

  • Electric balance watches: from 1957.
  • Tuning-fork watches: 1960–c. 1977.
  • Quartz analogue: from December 1969; LED digital: 1972–c. 1978; LCD from 1973.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Seiko calibre 35A (Astron)

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