
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Zenith El Primero De Luca Chronograph (Ref. 02.2310.400), 1990s
- Maker / attribution
- Zenith (maker)
- Date
- 1990s
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 40 mm
- Stock no.
- Product 8263136903351
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 8263136903351)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1990s Zenith El Primero De Luca Chronograph (Ref. 02.2310.400) (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 8263136903351), this is a wristwatch by Zenith, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 40 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Huntington Company
History & Significance The De Luca collection was born from the passion and vision of Zenith’s Italian import agent, affectionately known as “De Luca,” who sought to revive the classic chronograph spirit of the brand. Produced from 1988 to 1996, these watches marked a defining moment in Zenith’s modern era, as the brand transitioned from its 1970s experimental designs back toward traditional, sport-oriented chronographs. Four versions of the De Luca were produced during this period, totaling approximately 6,500 pieces across panda and reverse panda dial configurations. With each iteration, Zenith refined the design, adding features like screw-down pushers, updated bezels, and slightly altered case dimensions, bringing the De Luca closer to the aesthetic of the Rolex Daytona while maintaining its El Primero identity. At the heart of the watch beats the legendary El Primero Caliber 400, one of the most celebrated automatic chronograph movements ever made. With its high-beat 36,000 vph frequency and 50-hour power reserve, the movement remains a benchmark of precision and engineering excellence. Today, De Luca models stand as highly collectible milestones, prized for their rarity, balance, and authentic 1990s Zenith design. Writer’s Thoughts There’s something undeniably special about the De Luca, a chronograph that feels both familiar and distinct. The proportions are ideal, the dial execution crisp, and the character unmistakably Zenith. The even patina on the hour markers and the subtle wear across the bezel give this piece character. It’s easily one of the best ways to experience a true El Primero without stepping into five or six-figure territory. Our Promise Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity. Specifications Model: El Primero Ref. 02.2310.400 Year: 1990s Case Material: Stainless steel Case Size: 40mm diameter, 13.5mm thick, 46.3mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug width Bezel: Black unidirectional bezel Dial: Gloss white panda dial with black registers and dark green patinated hour markers Crystal: Mineral crystal Movement: Automatic Zenith El Primero Caliber 400 which just came back from a full service overhaul Bracelet: Original Zenith steel bracelet Clasp: Original folded-lock clasp Contents: Pouch Condition Case: Appears unpolished with normal signs of wear throughout. Bezel: Black insert shows even fading and wear consistent with age. Crystal: Excellent condition; free of chips or cracks. Dial: Crisp and original; hour markers evenly patinated to a dark green tone. Hands: Original hands have been relumed and repainted black. Bracelet: Original oyster-style bracelet with light wear, most visible on center end links. Clasp: Original clasp retains a solid click and closes securely.
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
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