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Ulysse Nardin pocket watch, Perpetual Calendar Split-Second Chronograph Minute Repeater, circa 1895 — view 1 of 2
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Ulysse Nardin pocket watch, Perpetual Calendar Split-Second Chronograph Minute Repeater, circa 1895

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Ulysse Nardin (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1895
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
18k gold
Dimensions
diameter 59 mm
Lot
Lot 372-42
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 42, Geneva, November 9-10, 2024
Catalogue title (original)
ULYSSE NARDIN, SWITZERLAND, PERPETUAL CALENDAR SPLIT-SECOND CHRONOGRAPH, MINUTE REPEATER, 18K YELLOW GOLD (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 372-42), this is a pocket watch by Ulysse Nardin, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1895. The Atlas places it in the Industrial Revolution period (1850 – 1900) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 59 mm. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A very fine and important 18k gold, manual wind hunting-cased, keyless astronomical minute-repeating pocket chronometer with perpetual calendar, phases and age of the moon, split-seconds chronograph and 30-minute register, with special balance

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Movement No.: 8457; Case No.: 8457; Caliber: 19"', rhodium plated, "fausses cotes" decoration, 39 jewels, straight line lever escapement, blued steel balance spring with terminal curve. Repeating on gongs with slide in the band. Split-seconds chronograph with visible work.; Diameter: 59 mm.; Signature: Dial, case and movement

Inscriptions & marks

Dial, case and movement

Historical context

Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)

American interchangeable-parts manufacture; railroad time standards; Swiss and German factory systems.

Machine production with interchangeable parts, pioneered by Waltham (1850s) and adopted by Elgin, Longines, Omega and others, made reliable lever watches widely affordable. Keyless winding became standard, railroad watch standards were introduced (1890s), and Swiss and American industries competed globally.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Precision & Scientific Horology

Atlas type guide

Repeating watches

Before electric light, telling the time in the dark was a real problem. Repeating watches strike the time on demand when a slide or push-piece is operated: quarter repeaters sound hours and quarters, minute repeaters hours, quarters and minutes. Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare disputed the invention in London in the 1680s. Early repeaters struck on a bell inside the case; Abraham-Louis Breguet introduced the gong (a coiled steel wire) around 1780, allowing thinner watches.

Repeaters require a separate train with racks, snails and a governor to control the striking speed, and are among the most demanding complications to make and adjust. Swiss makers of the Vallée de Joux specialised in repeating ébauches in the nineteenth century.

What to look for

  • A slide on the case band or a push-piece through the pendant.
  • Gongs encircling the movement (after c. 1780) or a bell in the case (earlier); pierced case for sound.
  • The racks, snails and governor visible under the dial or on the movement.
  • Terms such as 'Minutes', 'Quarts' or 'Répétition' on the dial or cuvette.

Dating clues

  • Bell-striking quarter repeaters: c. 1690–1800.
  • Gong repeaters and dumb repeaters (striking on the case): after c. 1780.
  • Minute repeaters became more common after c. 1830 with Vallée de Joux ébauches.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Minute repeater

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