
Wristwatches · Wrist-watch
Small chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever ladies wrist-watch with enamel dial and brown leather strap
- Maker / attribution
- Roskopf (Made by)
- Date
- 1935–1945
- Historical period
- Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Place
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wrist-watch
- Materials / technique
- chromium
- Dimensions
- Diameter: 21.30 millimetres
- Holding institution
- British Museum
- Accession / object no.
- 1987,1012.15
- Credit line
- British Museum, London
- Catalogue title (original)
- Small chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever ladies wrist-watch with enamel dial and brown leather strap (English)
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Record summary
Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1987,1012.15), this is a wrist-watch by Roskopf, made in Switzerland, dated 1935–1945. The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: chromium. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 21.30 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Description — British Museum
Wrist-watch. Movement with club-tooth lever escapement; signed on ratchet-wheel. White enamel dial with luminous-painted Arabic hour numerals; the 12 in red; subsidiary seconds. Pierced blued-steel hands in-filled with luminous paint. Chromium-plated case with snap-on bezel. Brown leather wrist-strap.
Curator's comments — British Museum
Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) Made by Roskopf Switzerland, c. 1940 Wrist watch with club tooth lever escapement. Signature: On the dial 'ROSKOPF PATENT', the trade mark in red and 'SWISS MADE'. On the barrel ratchet wheel 'ROSKOPF' and two stars. Case: A stainless steel three piece case the back marked with a circle within a triangle and 'EDELSTAHL'. On the inside of the back is 1 and 3197. Dial & Hands: Unexpectedly the dial is of enamel. A sunk subsidiary seconds dial. Arabic skeleton numerals, the 12 in red all of the others in black and filled with luminous paint. Blued-steel skeleton hands also filled luminous and a blued-steel seconds hand. Movement: Ebauche Marks: 36 87 Frame: A nickel silver movement. A bridge for the barrel and centre and another for the third and fourth wheels. Cocks for the escape wheel, the pallets and the balance. The front plate spotted and the movement damascened on the back. Scratched under the train and the barrel bridges 36 87. Scratched under the cocks 36. Barrel and Mainspring: Scratched inside the going barrel and the recessed cover 36. Barrel: I diameter 7.7 mm., height 2.1 mm. Mainspring: height 2.1 mm., thickness 0.10 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 2.4 mm., snailed. Hooking: Milled from the barrel wall. Train: All the brass wheels gilded, the centre, third and fourth wheels with five crossings. The steel escape wheel with four. Jewelling: Jewelled bearings from the third wheel onwards, all the jewels rubbed in. Ruby endstones to the balance jewels. Escapement: A straight line layout, club tooth lever escapement with short lever, double roller and D-shaped impulse pin. The exposed pallet stones have flat acting faces. A steel escape wheel with four crossings. A mixed escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: a monometallic balance with brass screws. Balance diameter 6.7 mm., thickness 0.55 mm. A 'self compensating' flat spiral spring with 10 turns, badly distorted. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with 'F S' and 'A R' engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel 68 (barrel) Centre wheel 64 pinion 10 Third wheel 60 pinion 8 Fourth wheel 60 pinion 8 Escape wheel 15 pinion 6 Beat rate: 18,000 Motion work: cannon pinion 10 minute wheel 30, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Winding System: Conventional positive stem set keyless work. Dimensions: Case diameter 21.3 mm., height 8.8 mm., over the glass. Movement: Diameter 19.3 mm., height 5.1 mm. Provenance: Purchased in 1987 with the aid of funds from the Dingwall Bequest.
Inscriptions & marks
inscription; *ROSKOPF* [movement]; inscription; EDELSTAHL [case back]; mark; 1 3197 [case]
Provenance
Purchased from:, William Skeen
Historical context
Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)
The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.
The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Identification Centre
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