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Silver-cased rolex club-tooth lever wrist-watch with modern coloured nylon strap — view 1 of 1
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Wristwatches · Wrist-watch

Silver-cased rolex club-tooth lever wrist-watch with modern coloured nylon strap

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Rolex (Made by)
Date
1916 (import mark)
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Geneva (city)
Object type
Wrist-watch
Dimensions
Diameter: 32.10 millimetres (case) Diameter: 23.50 millimetres (dial) Length: 195 millimetres (strap) Thickness: 11.60 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1987,1012.10
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Silver-cased rolex club-tooth lever wrist-watch with modern coloured nylon strap (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1987,1012.10), this is a wrist-watch by Rolex, made in Geneva (city), Switzerland, dated 1916 (import mark). The Atlas places it in the Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking period (1900 – 1945) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 32.10 millimetres (case) Diameter: 23.50 millimetres (dial) Length: 195 millimetres (strap) Thickness: 11.60 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Wrist-watch. Movement with club-tooth lever escapement. White enamel dial with Arabic hour numerals within minute circle and sunk subsidiary seconds. Blued-steel hands. Silver case with hinged back and bezel. Modern red, white and blue nylon wrist-strap.

Curator's comments — British Museum

Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) Made by Rolex Watch Co. Switzerland, c. 1916 Silver cased wrist watch with club tooth lever escapement. Signature: On the case 'ROLEX SWISS' and on the barrel ratchet wheel 'ROLEX 15 JEWELS'. Case: Three piece silver case a hinged bezel and back. The case back marked 'ROLEX SWISS' with London import marks for 1916. The case back which is badly dented is numbered 746969 and 4. Dial & Hands: Skeleton Arabic numerals and a sunk subsidiary seconds dial. A moon minute hand, not original, a skeleton hour hand, a polar type seconds hand. All hands in blued-steel. Movement Ebauche Marks: 'REBBERG DEPOSE' 5184.(1) A trade mark on the front plate under the barrel bridge like a J running into a 3. Frame: A nickel silver movement, a bridge for the barrel, another for the train. A bridge for the pallets and a cock for the balance. Barrel and Mainspring: A recessed cover to the going barrel. Barrel: internal diameter 10.0 mm., height 1.40 mm. Mainspring: height 1.30 mm, thickness 0.13 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 3.3 mm, snailed. Hooking: A round hook. Train: All the brass wheels gilded but on one side only, the centre wheel, third and fourth wheels with five crossings. The steel escape wheel with four. Jewelling: Jewelled bearings from the third wheel onwards, all the jewels rubbed in. Ruby endstones to the balance jewels. Escapement: A straight line layout club tooth lever escapement with short lever, double roller and the impulse pin elliptical in section. The exposed pallet stones have flat acting faces. A steel escape wheel with four crossings. The pallet staff screwed in. An equidistant locking escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: a bimetallic balance but not split and with brass screws. Balance diameter 9.2 mm, thickness 0.7 mm. A bright-steel flat spiral spring with 13 turns. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with 'F S' and 'A R" engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel 95 (barrel) Centre wheel 64 pinion 10 Third wheel 60 pinion 8 Fourth wheel 60 pinion 8 Escape wheel 15 pinion 6 Beat rate: 18,000 Motion work: cannon pinion 10 minute wheel 30, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Keyless work: Conventional positive set keyless work. Dimensions: Case: Diameter 31.0 mm., height 10.4 mm. Movement: diameter 25.0 mm., height 6.3 mm. Provenance: Purchased in 1987 with the aid of funds from the Dingwall Bequest. Note: (1) See James L. Dowling and Jeffrey P. Hess 'The Best of Time ROLEX WRISTWATCHES'. Pa - u: S.A. 1996.

Inscriptions & marks

signature; ROLEX SWISS 746969 [case back]; maker's mark; Indistinct [case]; hallmark; London import mark 1916. [case]; signature; ROLEX 15 JEWELS [barrel-ratchet wheel]

Provenance

Purchased from:, William Skeen

Historical context

Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking (1900 – 1945)

The wristwatch displaces the pocket watch; waterproof cases, self-winding and grand complications.

The wristwatch overtook the pocket watch. Military use in the First World War, aviation, water-resistant cases (1926), automatic winding (1923–31), rectangular Art Deco designs and early chronographs and calendars defined the period.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Industrial Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Identification Centre

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