Piaget Perpetual Calendar, 1990s

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Complicated watches such as this one — particularly ones finished in precious metals and packing a lot of horological heat for their size — are passed over by most collectors today. But those in the know will recognize that the craftsmanship and materials amount to worlds beyond their current market value, and will snatch them up in advance of an inevitable stylistic turn in their direction! This particular watch, a reference 15958, is a gorgeous perpetual calendar from Piaget, one of the world’s foremost experts in ultra-thin watchmaking. Dating to the 1990s, it’s housed in a 33mm yellow gold stepped case with a sapphire crystal. Featuring a handsome white dial with silvered radial subdials, it has a day indicator at 3 o’clock; a moonphase at 6 o’clock; an Italian-language day indicator at 9 o’clock; and an Italian month indicator at 12 o’clock. With its stepped bezel, stick handset, simple, and black leather strap with signed yellow gold pin buckle, you’d be forgiven for thinking this is a watch from the 1950s — but no! It’s a neo-vintage masterpiece that merely echoes the best in vintage watchmaking. Further differentiating this piece from the quantieme perpetual of the mid-20th century is that this one is powered by an automatic movement. Originally launched within the Gouverneur line, the reference 15958 debuted in storied company, alongside a chronograph, an automatic chronometer, a petite sonnerie and a grand sonnerie. While some of these other complicated members of the Gouverneur line have become six-figure watches, the Perpetual Calendar ref. 15958 is still highly affordable by any standard. Don’t sleep on what’s certainly a sleeper hit!