Ming 57.04 Iris Monopusher Chronograph, 2022

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Founded in 2017 by Malaysian designer and photographer Ming Thein, MING has established itself as one of the more recognisable names in contemporary independent watchmaking. Unlike other 'traditional' independent brands, MING has approached watch design from a distinctly different perspective, focusing on case architecture, unconventional dial construction and the interaction of light with different materials. Despite its relatively short history, the brand has developed a remarkably consistent design identity, with its distinctive floating hour markers, sculpted lugs and minimalist displays becoming immediately recognisable. Introduced in August 2025 to commemorate the brand's eighth anniversary, the MING 57.04 Iris represents a significant departure from its earlier creations. Not only does it introduce MING's fifth-generation design language, but it is also the brand's first left-handed or 'destro' watch, housing a manually wound monopusher chronograph movement. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, the Iris marks an important milestone for the brand, bringing together several years of development into an entirely new case architecture. Starting with the stainless steel case, the 57.04 measures 40mm in diameter and 11.85mm in thickness, with a relatively compact lug-to-lug measurement of 47.8mm. While previous generations of MING watches were generally characterised by their flowing, organic lug designs, the Iris takes a considerably more architectural approach. Its multi-piece lugs feature a series of stepped, angular surfaces with alternating polished and brushed finishes, lending the watch an almost Art Deco appearance. The crown and integrated chronograph pusher are unusually positioned on the left side of the case, a deliberate design decision that allows for a larger, more tactile winding crown without interfering with the wrist. However, the real attraction of the 57.04 is undoubtedly its extraordinary dial. Aptly named 'Iris', the dial features a deeply dished, radially fluted surface that shifts between shades of turquoise, blue and purple depending on the angle and intensity of light. This unusual effect is achieved through a multiphasic coating applied over a machined brass base, producing an almost iridescent appearance that is difficult to capture in photographs. Rather than relying on a conventional sunburst finish, the radial fluting introduces an additional layer of depth, with the changing colours accentuating the curvature and texture of the dial. As with many of MING's creations, the hour markers are not applied directly to the dial but are instead laser-etched into the underside of the sapphire crystal and filled with luminous material. This creates the illusion of the indices floating above the dial, further emphasising its considerable depth. At 6 o'clock sits an unusual 30-minute chronograph counter, presented through a shaped rotating disc with a sandwich-style construction and luminous detailing. Together with the central chronograph seconds hand, the arrangement offers a remarkably unconventional interpretation of what is otherwise a fairly traditional complication. Turning the watch over reveals the manually wound Sellita for MING Cal. SW562.M1, developed in collaboration with Sellita specifically for this configuration. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours, the movement features a central chronograph seconds hand and a 30-minute counter, both operated through the single pusher integrated into the crown. Visually, the movement has been given considerable attention, with an anthracite mainplate contrasted against a large, sculptural 4N-coated three-quarter plate. While not a traditionally hand-finished movement in the manner of some of the more established independent watchmakers, its architecture and contrasting finishes give it a distinctive appearance that is very much in keeping with MING's design philosophy. What I find particularly appealing about the 57.04 Iris is how successfully MING has managed to evolve its design language without losing the identity that made its earlier watches so recognisable. The angular case and almost architectural lugs are considerably more elaborate than those of its predecessors, yet the floating indices, unconventional chronograph display and extraordinary colour-changing dial remain unmistakably MING. With just 100 examples produced, the Iris is not only a rare watch, but also an important reference in the brand's relatively young history, representing the beginning of an entirely new generation of MING design.