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Gold and Enamel Chatelaine Repeating Virgule, circa 1790 — view 1 of 6
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Gold and Enamel Chatelaine Repeating Virgule, circa 1790

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
c. 1790
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gold, enamel
Stock no.
A10835
Credit line
Dealer listing, Pieces of Time (A10835)
Catalogue title (original)
Gold and Enamel Chatelaine Repeating Virgule (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Pieces of Time (dealer), London (stock number A10835), this is a pocket watch, dated c. 1790. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold, enamel. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Pieces of Time

A late 18 th Century quarter repeating Swiss virgule in a diamond and pearl set gold and enamel consular case with matching chatelaine. Full plate gilt fusee movement. Finely pierced and engraved bridge cock with garnet endstone, plain three arm gilt balance with blue steel spiral hairspring. Silver regulator dial with blue steel indicator. Rare virgule escapement, large brass escape wheel. Push pendant dumb quarter repeating on two blocks in the case. Winding through the unusual white enamel dial with Roman numerals at the quarters, Arabic numerals between them. Decorative pierced gold hands. Fine gold consular case, translucent dark blue enamel over an engine turned ground. The bezel and back both set with a single row of large split pearls. Applied white metal decoration on the back set with diamonds. Gold push pendant and bow. Fine matching chatelaine, the gilt clip faced with gold and champleve enamel, an oval in the centre between two split pearls One side supports the watch on two short chains, alternating square links decorated on both sides in gold and translucent dark blue enamel bordered in white. These terminate in a spring clip with threaded safety collar. The centre with a gold and enamel bell with tassels of graduated pearls supported by a row of pearls. The other side of the clip matching chain with two gold and enamel pearl set rectangular cartouches each set with a central split pearl. The lower cartouche bordered by a row of split pearls supports the accessories three further matching chains. The central chain with a matching gold and enamel oval key. The outer chains with slightly small versions of the tassel at the centre of the clip. Fitted in an unusually shaped red morocco covered case.

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Repeating watches

Before electric light, telling the time in the dark was a real problem. Repeating watches strike the time on demand when a slide or push-piece is operated: quarter repeaters sound hours and quarters, minute repeaters hours, quarters and minutes. Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare disputed the invention in London in the 1680s. Early repeaters struck on a bell inside the case; Abraham-Louis Breguet introduced the gong (a coiled steel wire) around 1780, allowing thinner watches.

Repeaters require a separate train with racks, snails and a governor to control the striking speed, and are among the most demanding complications to make and adjust. Swiss makers of the Vallée de Joux specialised in repeating ébauches in the nineteenth century.

What to look for

  • A slide on the case band or a push-piece through the pendant.
  • Gongs encircling the movement (after c. 1780) or a bell in the case (earlier); pierced case for sound.
  • The racks, snails and governor visible under the dial or on the movement.
  • Terms such as 'Minutes', 'Quarts' or 'Répétition' on the dial or cuvette.

Dating clues

  • Bell-striking quarter repeaters: c. 1690–1800.
  • Gong repeaters and dumb repeaters (striking on the case): after c. 1780.
  • Minute repeaters became more common after c. 1830 with Vallée de Joux ébauches.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Minute repeaterMinute repeater

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