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French Gold and Enamel Repeater with Chatelaine, circa 1780 — view 1 of 6
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

French Gold and Enamel Repeater with Chatelaine, circa 1780

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
c. 1780
Country of origin
France
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gold, enamel
Stock no.
A10926
Credit line
Dealer listing, Pieces of Time (A10926)
Catalogue title (original)
French Gold and Enamel Repeater with Chatelaine (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Pieces of Time (dealer), London (stock number A10926), this is a pocket watch, made in France, dated c. 1780. The Atlas places it in the Precision & Scientific Horology period (1750 – 1850) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold, enamel. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Pieces of Time

A fine late 18 th Century French quarter repeating cylinder with calendar in a gold and enamel consular case and matching chatelaine. Full plate gilt fusee movement, signed and numbered gilt dust cover pierced for the endstone and regulator. Finely pierced and engraved bridge cock, diamond endstone in a polished steel setting, plain three arm gilt balance with blue steel spiral hairspring. Blued regulator dial with gold indicator. Polished steel cylinder, large steel escape wheel, pivots with screwed in jewelling. Push pendant dumb quarter repeating on blocks in the case. Signed white enamel dial with central day of the month calendar in red Arabic numerals. Black Arabic numerals for the hours and quarter minutes, blue steel calendar hand, gold beetle and poker hands. Raised brass edge to the dial signed “Gregson”. Fine and unusual gold and enamel consular case with hinged bezel and back cover both set within a recess of the body of the case with no discernable sign of a hinge. Opening either of them reveals the hinges to be set close to the movement. The small crescent of the bezels beyond the hinges moves below the recess in the body of the case. Two small recessed pins at three o’clock to open them independently. The bezels decorated with white and dark blue translucent champleve enamel. Oval cartouche of a floral bouquet finely painted in polychrome enamel. Border of dark blue translucent champleve enamel representing a ribbon tied in a bow at twelve. Fine matching chatelaine, the gilt clip faced with gold and enamel floral scene. Similarly decorated cartouche attached to the clip by a hinge. The watch secured to this by a swivel sprung gold clip with threaded safety collar. Two small gold and enamel cartouches also hang from the clip, each with a matching double sided gold and enamel key, one lacking the shaft. Recent black morocco covered fitted display box. Lined in red velvet, the chatelaine visible through the glazed lid, easel stand.

Historical context

Precision & Scientific Horology (1750 – 1850)

Harrison solves longitude; Mudge invents the lever; Breguet's Paris workshop defines the modern watch.

From 1750 to 1850 the watch became a precision instrument. Mudge's lever escapement, the cylinder escapement, Lépine's thin bar calibre, Breguet's innovations (overcoil, tourbillon, perpétuelle) and the pocket chronometer of Arnold and Earnshaw all date from this period, while verge watches remained common in cheaper production.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Early Modern Horology

Atlas type guide

Repeating watches

Before electric light, telling the time in the dark was a real problem. Repeating watches strike the time on demand when a slide or push-piece is operated: quarter repeaters sound hours and quarters, minute repeaters hours, quarters and minutes. Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare disputed the invention in London in the 1680s. Early repeaters struck on a bell inside the case; Abraham-Louis Breguet introduced the gong (a coiled steel wire) around 1780, allowing thinner watches.

Repeaters require a separate train with racks, snails and a governor to control the striking speed, and are among the most demanding complications to make and adjust. Swiss makers of the Vallée de Joux specialised in repeating ébauches in the nineteenth century.

What to look for

  • A slide on the case band or a push-piece through the pendant.
  • Gongs encircling the movement (after c. 1780) or a bell in the case (earlier); pierced case for sound.
  • The racks, snails and governor visible under the dial or on the movement.
  • Terms such as 'Minutes', 'Quarts' or 'Répétition' on the dial or cuvette.

Dating clues

  • Bell-striking quarter repeaters: c. 1690–1800.
  • Gong repeaters and dumb repeaters (striking on the case): after c. 1780.
  • Minute repeaters became more common after c. 1830 with Vallée de Joux ébauches.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Minute repeater

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