De Bethune DB25VTIS3 Starry Varius Titanium, 2022

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta, De Bethune has established a remarkably distinct identity within independent watchmaking. While much of the manufacture's work is defined by highly technical movements and futuristic case designs, the DB25 represents its more classical side, combining traditional round watchmaking with the materials, finishing and technical innovations that have come to define the brand. Introduced in 2018, the DB25 Starry Varius is perhaps one of the purest expressions of this approach. At first glance it is an exceptionally simple watch displaying only the hours and minutes, yet almost every element of its construction is unmistakably De Bethune. At the centre is the manufacture's signature starry sky dial. Rather than conventional paint or lacquer, the deep blue surface is made from polished titanium, its colour achieved through the controlled oxidation of the metal. Individual white gold pins are then hand fitted into the dial to form the stars, while the Milky Way is created through laser micro-milling before being gilded with 24-carat gold leaf. The result has considerably more depth than a conventional blue dial, changing from an almost black navy to an intense electric blue depending on the light. Surrounding this is a silver-toned chapter ring with polished rose gold hour markers, matched by a pair of hand-polished rose gold hands. It is an unusual combination of colours and materials, but one that works particularly well. The warmth of the rose gold provides contrast against the cold blue titanium without distracting from the starry dial itself. The case is equally considered. Measuring 42mm across but just 8.8mm thick, it is made entirely from highly polished Grade 5 titanium. The hollowed ogival lugs curve sharply downwards towards the wrist, helping disguise the relatively large diameter, while the extremely low weight of titanium makes the watch considerably easier to wear than its dimensions would suggest. Visible through the sapphire caseback is the manually wound Calibre DB2005. Despite the simplicity of the display, the movement incorporates much of De Bethune's technical watchmaking, including a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, the manufacture's balance spring with flat terminal curve, a silicon escape wheel and its triple pare-chute shock absorption system. Twin self-regulating barrels provide an impressive six-day power reserve. The movement is also unmistakably De Bethune in its finishing. Broad bridges are decorated with Côtes De Bethune, the twin barrels are hand snailed and the steel components are individually polished and chamfered. The architecture is modern and almost industrial, but the level of hand finishing remains firmly rooted in traditional haute horlogerie. What makes the DB25 Starry Varius particularly successful is its restraint. De Bethune is best known for watches that can be visually and mechanically extreme, yet here many of the manufacture's signatures - heat-blued titanium, unusual materials, proprietary movement technology and its fascination with the night sky - are distilled into a simple two-hand watch. The result is unmistakably De Bethune, but in a form that is considerably more understated and wearable than much of the manufacture's work.