
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
CWC Royal Navy Diver 0555/6645-99-7573314, 1995
- Maker / attribution
- CWC (maker)
- Date
- 1995
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- CWCRND95-1
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CWCRND95-1)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1995 CWC Royal Navy Diver 0555/6645-99-7573314 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CWCRND95-1), this is a wristwatch by CWC, dated 1995. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
Founded in 1972, Cabot Watch Company (CWC) was established with the goal of producing purpose-built military timepieces for the British Ministry of Defense. Over the following decades, the company became one of the MOD's principal suppliers, manufacturing wristwatches for a variety of British military branches and earning a reputation for rugged, no-nonsense tool watches designed for operational use. In 1980, CWC was awarded the contract to replace the legendary Rolex-issued Royal Navy Submariner, commonly referred to today as the "MilSub." The first generation of CWC Royal Navy divers featured an automatic movement, a dial inspired by the Omega Seamaster 300, and an acrylic bezel insert. In 1983, the specification evolved to a quartz movement, improving reliability and reducing maintenance while retaining the proven Monnin-style case design closely associated with the Heuer Ref. 844 and other professional dive watches of the era. Quartz Royal Navy divers remained in military service for nearly two decades before being gradually superseded by the CWC SBS diver in the early 2000s. Today, these issued Royal Navy watches are recognized as some of the most historically significant British military wristwatches of the modern era, combining authentic military provenance with relatively low production numbers and an unmistakably utilitarian aesthetic. This example from 1995 was produced as part of the continued evolution of CWC's Royal Navy dive watch program, the 1995 specification features the updated CWC signed dial with an enlarged circled "T," "QUARTZ" designation, and the reliable ETA 955.122 quartz movement housed within the rugged M.R.P. S.A. manufactured Monnin style case, a design shared with several iconic professional dive watches of the era, including the Heuer Ref. 844. Today, the CWC Royal Navy Quartz Diver occupies an important place in British military watch collecting. Issued to the Royal Navy throughout the 1980s and 1990s, these watches represent the culmination of the Ministry of Defense's quartz dive watch program before eventually being superseded by the CWC SBS Diver. Their documented military provenance, purpose-built design, and comparatively limited production have made them increasingly sought after by collectors of issued military timepieces. SPECS Stock # CWCRND95-1 Brand CWC Style Military Diver Model 0555/6645-99-7573314 Serial 02X/95 Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Matte Black Millimeters 42 Strap Modern Green Phoenix NATO Strap CASE & BRACELET The case remains in sharp, unpolished condition, exhibiting honest wear consistent with military service. The original fixed strap bars remain fully intact, and the watch is fitted with the correct medium hash mark bezel insert for the production period, retaining a deep black finish with light wear. The tritium lume pip remains intact and has aged to a matching yellow patina. The screw-down caseback retains crisp, fully legible military issue markings, including the original NSN and issuance numbers. The watch is fitted with a new green Phoenix NATO strap. DIAL & HANDS The original matte black dial remains in excellent condition, free from any notable degradation or marks. The tritium lume on the dial has achieved a vibrant yellow patina and exhibits no degradation when inspected under UV light. The original tritium hands have aged to a slightly more pale, eggshell patina that matches the overall aesthetic of the watch, and exhibit no degradation under UV light inspection. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Dive and water-resistant watches
Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.
Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.
What to look for
- Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
- Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
- Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
- Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.
Dating clues
- Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
- Professional dive watches: from 1953.
- Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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