
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
CWC Royal Navy SBS Diver 0555/6645-99-7995443, 1993
- Maker / attribution
- CWC (maker)
- Date
- 1993
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- CWCSBS93-1
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (CWCSBS93-1)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1993 CWC Royal Navy SBS Diver 0555/6645-99-7995443 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number CWCSBS93-1), this is a wristwatch by CWC, dated 1993. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
Founded in 1972, Cabot Watch Company (CWC) was established with the goal of producing purpose-built military timepieces for the British Ministry of Defence. Over the following decades, the company became one of the MOD's principal suppliers, manufacturing wristwatches for a variety of British military branches and earning a reputation for rugged, purpose-built tool watches designed for operational use. Developed in response to a new Ministry of Defence specification introduced in 1987, the CWC SBS Diver was built to meet the operational requirements of the Royal Navy's Special Boat Service (SBS), one of the world's premier maritime special operations units. Designed as a true military dive instrument with a 300-meter depth rating, the SBS specification featured a nonreflective black PVD-coated case to reduce glare in low-light environments, along with a practical day-date display to assist personnel during extended deployments. Watches produced to this specification carry the military NSN 0555/6645-99-7995443 , distinguishing them from the earlier Royal Navy dive watch contracts. The first SBS divers entered military service in 1988 and were fitted with acrylic bezel inserts, echoing the construction of the contemporary Royal Navy divers. In 1992, the specification evolved to a metal bezel insert featuring a distinctive, wide hash-mark design unique to that contract year. Later production examples, including this 1993-issued watch, adopted the now-familiar narrow hash-mark metal bezel insert, a configuration that would remain standard on subsequent SBS issue watches. This example dates to the 1993 contract , the first year to carry the Royal Navy purchasing code 0555 in place of the earlier 0552 designation. Research published by CWC Addict indicates that approximately 100 examples were issued during the 1993 contract. In addition to their service with the Special Boat Service, watches from this period also saw use within other United Kingdom Special Forces elements. Combined with their documented military provenance, specialist operational history, and limited production, early SBS divers have become some of the most desirable modern British military wristwatches. SPECS Stock # CWCSBS93-1 Brand CWC Style Military Diver Model 0555/6645-99-7995443 Serial 03X/93 Size Men's Material Stainless Steel PVD Dial Matte Black Millimeters 42 Strap Original Issued Black Phoenix Strap CASE & BRACELET The case remains in sharp, unpolished condition, exhibiting honest wear consistent with military service along with an attractive, even patina to the original black PVD finish. The fixed strap bars remain fully intact, showing no evidence of bending or damage. The watch is fitted with the correct thin hash-mark bezel insert, appropriate for this period of production. The screw-down caseback retains crisp, fully legible military issue markings, including the original NSN and issuance numbers. This example also retains its original crystal, which displays light surface wear consistent with age and use. A replacement crystal can be installed upon request; however, we have elected to preserve the original crystal to maintain the watch's originality. The watch comes supplied on an era-correct issued black Phoenix NATO Strap, which remains in minimally worn condition. DIAL & HANDS The original matte black dial remains in excellent condition, free from any notable degradation or marks. The tritium lume on both the dial and hands has aged evenly to a rich yellow coloration. As is commonly seen on original issued examples, the lume within the seconds hand has darkened further, with minor darkening also present in the minute hand. When examined under ultraviolet light, the tritium of the dial and hands exhibit no degradation or evidence of repair. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Dive and water-resistant watches
Keeping water and dust out of a wristwatch was a long-standing challenge. Rolex's screw-down Oyster case (1926) and Omega's Marine (1932) were landmarks; in the early 1950s Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms and Rolex's Submariner defined the professional dive watch with rotating bezels for timing dives, luminous dials and high water resistance. The ISO 6425 standard (1982) later codified what a 'diver's watch' must do.
Dive watches became icons of post-war design and exploration, and their evolution — helium escape valves, ceramic bezels, saturation-diving depth ratings — records the history of underwater work.
What to look for
- Unidirectional or bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings.
- Screw-down crown and case back; depth rating printed on the dial.
- Luminous hands and markers (radium before c. 1960, tritium c. 1960–1998, then Super-LumiNova).
- Reference numbers on the case between the lugs or inside the back.
Dating clues
- Screw-down Oyster cases: from 1926.
- Professional dive watches: from 1953.
- Tritium 'T' marks on dials: c. 1960–1998.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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