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Chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black leather strap — view 1 of 1
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Wristwatches · Wrist-watch

Chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black leather strap

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
1962–1968
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Switzerland (?)
Object type
Wrist-watch
Materials / technique
chromium, metal
Dimensions
Diameter: 30 millimetres (bezel) Diameter: 27.50 millimetres (dial) Length: 228 millimetres Thickness: 10 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1983,1012.183
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black leather strap (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1983,1012.183), this is a wrist-watch, made in Switzerland (?), dated 1962–1968. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: chromium, metal. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 30 millimetres (bezel) Diameter: 27.50 millimetres (dial) Length: 228 millimetres Thickness: 10 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Wrist-watch. 3/4 plate movement with club-tooth lever escapement. Silvered dial with Arabic hour numerals and subsidiary seconds. Gold hands. Chromium-plated case with snap-on back. Black leather wrist-strap.

Curator's comments — British Museum

Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) Maker anonymous Switzerland, c. 1960 Wrist watch with a club tooth lever escapement. Signature: Around the barrel arbor retaining screw 'PAT.' the Helvetia cross and 'D.R.P.' Case: A round chromium plated case with a snap on back and bezel. Complete with a black leather strap with a chromium plated buckle. Dial & Hands: A silvered metal dial with black Arabic numerals and minute circle. A subsidiary seconds dial. Gold hands of lozenge style. The dial secured with two dog screws. Movement: Ebauche Marks. The ebauche mark MA 345 for Adolphe Michel S.A.(1) Frame: A round movement with a nickel plated brass frame with a grained finish. A detachable barrel. The back plate, which is supported by the keyless block and two pillars, covers all but the pallets and balance which are supported by cocks. Barrel and Mainspring: The going barrel has no cover, the winding wheel acts as the spring restraint. Barrel: I diameter 8.5 mm., height 1.63 mm. Mainspring: height 1.5 mm., thickness 0.10 mm. Barrel Arbor: is staked to the winding wheel and is 3.9 mm. in diameter, it is snailed. Hooking: milled from the barrel wall. Train: All the brass wheels are gilded, the centre wheel, third and fourth wheels with five crossings. The steel escape wheel with four. Jewelling: Jewelled bearings from the third wheel onwards. All the jewels pressed in. Ruby endstones to the balance jewels. Escapement: An straight line layout club tooth lever escapement with short lever, double roller and D-shaped impulse pin. A steel escape wheel with four crossings. The acting faces of the pallet stones flat. An equidistant locking escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: A monometalic nickel silver balance with brass screws. Balance diameter 8.45 mm, thickness 0.66 mm. A 'self compensating' flat spiral spring with 12 turns. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with 'F S' and 'A R' engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel (barrel) 70 Centre wheel 64 pinion 10 Third wheel 60 pinion 8 Fourth wheel 60 pinion 8 Escape wheel 15 pinion 6 Beat rate 18,000 Motion work: cannon pinion 9 minute wheel 27, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Winding System: Stem set rocking bar keyless work. Dimensions: Diameter 29.6 mm., height 10.1 mm., over the glass. Movement: diameter 22 mm., height 5.8 mm. Provenance: Donated in 1983 by The Heron Corporation Ltd. Note: (1) First founded in 1898. In 1926 participated in the creation of the Ebauche Group.

Inscriptions & marks

inscription; PAT.+.D.R.P. [around barrel arbor retaining screws]

Provenance

Donated by:, Heron Corporation

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Identification Centre

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