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Chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black leather strap — view 1 of 1
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Wristwatches · Wrist-watch

Chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black leather strap

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Yeoman (Made by)
Date
c. 1960 (active)
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Switzerland
Object type
Wrist-watch
Materials / technique
chromium, metal
Dimensions
Diameter: 30 millimetres (bezel) Diameter: 25.60 millimetres (dial) Length: 229 millimetres Thickness: 9 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1983,1012.182
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Chrome-plated cased club-tooth lever wrist-watch with black leather strap (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1983,1012.182), this is a wrist-watch by Yeoman, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1960 (active). The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: chromium, metal. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 30 millimetres (bezel) Diameter: 25.60 millimetres (dial) Length: 229 millimetres Thickness: 9 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Wrist-watch. 15 jewel Swiss movement with club-tooth lever escapement. Silvered dial with gold Arabic hour numerals and subsidiary seconds. Gold hands. Chromium-plated case with snap-on stainless-steel back. Black leather wrist-strap with chromium-plated buckle.

Curator's comments — British Museum

Comment from Richard Good, Catalogue of Watches in the British Museum. Vol. V (Unpublished manuscript) Made by Yeoman (movement by Enica S. A.) Switzerland, c. 1960. Wrist watch with a club tooth lever escapement. Signature: On the dial 'YOEMAN 15 JEWELS' and 'SWISS MADE'. Case: A round chromium plated three piece case with a snap on stainless steel back and a snap on bezel. Complete with a black leather strap with a chromium plated buckle. The case back inscribed 'FONTE INJECTEE' in a long rectangular cartouche and 'FOND ACIER INOXYDABLE 531'. Dial & Hands: A silvered metal dial with gold Arabic numerals and a sunk subsidiary seconds dial. Gold coloured hands of tapered baton style dial, gilt seconds hand. On the back of the dial in black is CM. The dial secured with two side screws. Movement: Ebauche Marks. An ebauche mark A-R in a lozenge and the number 412.(1) Frame: A round movement with nickel silver plates and with a grained finish. A bridge for the barrel one for the train and cocks for the pallets and balance. Barrel and Mainspring: Going Barrel: I diameter 9.2 mm., height 1.4 mm. Mainspring: height 1.2 mm., thickness 0.11 mm. Barrel Arbor: diameter 3.00 mm, snailed. Hooking: milled from the barrel wall. Train: All the brass wheels are gilded, the centre, third and fourth wheels with five crossings. The steel escape wheel with four. Jewelling: Jewelled bearings from the third wheel onwards. All the jewels pressed in. Ruby endstones to the balance jewels. Escapement: A straight line layout, club tooth lever escapement with short lever, double roller and D-shaped impulse pin. A steel escape wheel with four crossings. Exposed pallet stones, the acting faces flat. An equidistant locking escapement. No. of teeth embraced 3½. Balance & Spring: A monometallic balance with a 'self compensating' balance spring. Balance diameter 9.73 mm., thickness 0.72 mm. A flat spiral spring with 10 ½ turns. Means of Regulation: An index on the balance cock registers against a divided scale with 'F S' and 'A R' engraved on the balance cock table. Train Counts and Beat Rate: Great wheel (barrel) 70 Centre wheel 80 pinion 19 Third wheel 60 pinion 10 Fourth wheel 60 pinion 8 Escape wheel 15 pinion 6 Beat rate 18,000 Motion work: cannon pinion 10 minute wheel 30, minute pinion 8 hour wheel 32 Winding System: Conventional positive stem set keyless work. Dimensions: Diameter of bezel 30 mm., height 9.0 mm., over the glass. Movement: Diameter 23.6 mm., height 6.3 mm. Provenance: Donated in 1983 by The Heron Corporation Ltd. Note: (1) This is an Enica S.A. movement.

Inscriptions & marks

inscription; YEOMAN 15 JEWELS [dial]; inscription; SWISS MADE [dial]; inscription; FONTE INJECTEE FOND ACIER INOXYDABLE 53 1 [case-back]

Provenance

Donated by:, Heron Corporation

Historical context

Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)

Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.

The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Identification Centre

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