
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Santos 100 XL watch, 1904-2004 commemorative edition, ref. 2656
- Maker / attribution
- CARTIER (maker)
- Date
- c. 2004
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Unrecorded in source
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- silver, steel
- Auction house
- Invaluable auction listings
- Lot
- Lot 0FBECF51DE
- Credit line
- Auction lot record: lot 24, 30th November - Fine Watches & Fountain Pens, Setdart Auction House (2026), via Invaluable
- Catalogue title (original)
- CARTIER Santos 100 XL watch, 1904-2004 commemorative edition, ref. 2656. Serial no. 382351XX, ca. 2004. In stainless steel. (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot 0FBECF51DE), this is a wristwatch by CARTIER, dated c. 2004. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver, steel. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Lot description — Setdart Auction House
CARTIER Santos 100 XL watch, 1904–2004 commemorative edition, ref. 2656, serial no. 382351XX, ca. 2004. Square stainless steel case with rounded corners and a satin finish, featuring a mirror-polished bezel and eight visible screws. Silver-toned dial signed Cartier, with black Roman numerals and an inner railroad-style minute track. Blued steel sword-shaped hands and a central seconds hand. Seven-faceted heptagonal crown with a carved blue cabochon. Heptagonal crown topped with a faceted blue stone. Sapphire crystal. Brown leather strap with stitching and a scaled texture. Automatic movement, Cartier Caliber 049, based on the ETA 2892-A2. It works. The strap shows delamination of the inner lining. Measurements: 50 x 38 mm, not including the crown. Launched in 2004 to commemorate the centennial of the watch Louis Cartier created for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos 100 updates one of the brand’s most recognizable designs with a larger case and a striking presence on the wrist. It retains its key design elements: the rounded-corner geometry, the visible screws on the bezel, and the Roman numerals. The combination of satin-finished and polished surfaces accentuates its architectural character, while the automatic movement combines everyday functionality with Cartier’s watchmaking tradition. In the watch descriptions, the phrase “it works” means that the watch is functioning. Since collector’s watches typically have delicate and complex mechanisms, the buyer is responsible for any general servicing, inspection, battery replacement, adjustment, or repair that may be necessary.
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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