
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Cartier Must Tank watch, ref. 6 119550, late 1980s
- Maker / attribution
- CARTIER (maker)
- Date
- 1980s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Poland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- silver, gold
- Auction house
- Invaluable auction listings
- Lot
- Lot BA0B48AA60
- Credit line
- Auction lot record: lot 42, 30th November - Fine Watches & Fountain Pens, Setdart Auction House (2026), via Invaluable
- Catalogue title (original)
- CARTIER Must Tank watch, ref. 6 119550, late 1980s. Smooth, rectangular case with a high-gloss polish, made of 925 sterling silver plated with 18k gold. (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot BA0B48AA60), this is a wristwatch by CARTIER, made in Poland, dated 1980s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver, gold. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Lot description — Setdart Auction House
CARTIER Must Tank watch, ref. 6 119550, late 1980s. Smooth, high-polished rectangular case in 925 sterling silver plated with 18k gold. Black lacquered dial bearing the “Must by Cartier” signature, without hour markers, featuring gold sword-style hour hands. No central seconds hand or date display. Curved mineral crystal. Smooth, flat bezel integrated into the case. Fluted crown plated with a convex blue cabochon finish. Black leather strap with a gold-plated buckle clasp. Push-back case back featuring the brand’s emblem and hallmarks, crafted from 925 sterling silver plated with 18k gold. Swiss Cartier 78 manual-winding movement. It works. With slight cracking on the dial and minor chips on the beveled edge of the crystal. Measurements: 30.5 x 23.5 mm (excluding the crown). In the watch descriptions, when a watch is listed as “it works,” it means the watch is functioning. Since collector’s watches typically have delicate and complex mechanisms, the buyer is responsible for any general servicing, inspection, battery replacement, adjustment, or repair that may be necessary.
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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