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Cartier Must Ronde watch, ref. 1800, serial no. 0066XX, from the 1990s — view 1 of 4
View 1 of 4 · Image: Setdart Auction House / Invaluable · original image source (opens another website in a new tab)

Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Cartier Must Ronde watch, ref. 1800, serial no. 0066XX, from the 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
CARTIER (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Poland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
silver, gold
Lot
Lot 0BF11DABDF
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 46, 30th November - Fine Watches & Fountain Pens, Setdart Auction House (2026), via Invaluable
Catalogue title (original)
CARTIER Must Ronde watch, ref. 1800, serial no. 0066XX, from the 1990s. Smooth, circular case with a high-gloss polish, made of 925 sterling silver plated with 18k gold. (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Invaluable auction listings (lot Lot 0BF11DABDF), this is a wristwatch by CARTIER, made in Poland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: silver, gold. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Setdart Auction House

CARTIER Must Ronde watch, ref. 1800, serial no. 0066XX, from the 1990s. Smooth, circular case with a high-gloss polish in 925 sterling silver plated with 18k gold. Bezel integrated into the case, smooth and flat. Cream-colored dial signed “Must by Cartier” with black Roman numerals and blue-pavé sword-style hour hands with a central seconds hand. Fluted crown plated with a convex blue cabochon finish. Flat sapphire crystal. Screw-down case back featuring the brand’s emblem and hallmarks, crafted from 925 sterling silver plated with 18k gold. Brown leather strap compatible with the original gold-plated folding clasp Swiss quartz movement, Cartier caliber 87. It works. Measurements: 35 x 32 mm (excluding the crown). In the watch descriptions, when a watch is listed as “it works,” it means the watch is functioning. Since collector’s watches typically have delicate and complex mechanisms, the buyer is responsible for any general servicing, inspection, battery replacement, adjustment, or repair that may be necessary.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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