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Audemars Piguet wristwatch, Perpetual Calendar Not Leap Year, 1999 — view 1 of 2
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Audemars Piguet wristwatch, Perpetual Calendar Not Leap Year, 1999

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet (brand / maker)
Date
1999
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
gold
Lot
Lot 352-50
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 50, Forte dei Marmi
Catalogue title (original)
AUDEMARS PIGUET 25654BA, PERPETUAL CALENDAR NOT LEAP YEAR, 18K YELLOW GOLD (English)

View the source record (auction lot) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 352-50), this is a wristwatch by Audemars Piguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1999. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gold. The record is illustrated with 2 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

Extremely fine and rare, automatic, 18kt yellow gold, perpetual calendar and moonphase, wristwatch.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: Royal oak perpetual calendar; Reference: 25654BA; Movement No.: 373994; Case No.: D33017.917; Bracelet: Audemars Piguet original bracelet, length circa 165mm; Caliber: 2120/4; Dimensions: 39 mm; Weight: Circa 179 g; Signature: Case, dial, movement signed; Accessories: Winding box, original warranty, booklet

Inscriptions & marks

Case, dial, movement signed

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches

Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.

Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.

What to look for

  • Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
  • Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
  • Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.

Dating clues

  • Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
  • Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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