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Zenith wristwatch, ref. 30.1125.113, Collection 125Eme Chronometre, 1990 — view 1 of 4
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Zenith wristwatch, ref. 30.1125.113, Collection 125Eme Chronometre, 1990

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Zenith (brand / maker)
Date
1990
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
diameter 36 mm
Lot
Lot 370-38
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 38, Monaco,July 13, 2024
Catalogue title (original)
ZENITH, SWITZERLAND, REF. 30.1125.113, COLLECTION 125EME, CHRONOMETRE, 18K YELLOW GOLD (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 370-38), this is a wristwatch by Zenith, made in Switzerland, dated 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A fine, limited to 300 pieces, 18k yellow gold, manual wind chronometer wristwatch made for the 125th anniversary of the manufacture

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: Collection 125eme; Limited Edition: 021/300; Reference: 30.1125.113; Movement No.: 35077; Bracelet: 18k yellow gold Zenith buckle; Caliber: 11''', 17 jewels; Diameter: 36; Weight: 47,7; Signature: dial, case and movement; Accessories: original fitted box (flaking), warranty, COSC, hang tag

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement

Provenance

Property of the original Italian owner

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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