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Zenith El Primero De Luca Chronograph Ref 02.0310.400, 1990s — view 1 of 6
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Zenith El Primero De Luca Chronograph Ref 02.0310.400, 1990s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Zenith (maker)
Date
1990s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 40 mm
Stock no.
W-2614
Credit line
Dealer listing, Bulang & Sons (W-2614)
Catalogue title (original)
Zenith El Primero De Luca Chronograph Ref 02.0310.400 (English)

View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction

Record summary

Catalogued by Bulang & Sons (dealer), Copenhagen (stock number W-2614), this is a wristwatch by Zenith, made in Switzerland, dated 1990s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 40 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

What would happen is a Zenith Dayona and a Submariner had a child? We think the De Luca Chronograph, such as the one we have on offer today. Named after the Italian Zenith distributer, who decided he wanted a new chronograph design for his clients, the de Luca has a rotating dive watch bezel and Mercedes hands on a classic El Primero chronograph watch. Cool? We think so! The case is in great condition and has inverted pump pushers and large sporty winding crown. The black dial has white gold surrounds for ythe hour plots, silver text and tachymeter scale and a date at four o’clock. The watch has a dive bezel and complementing Mercedes diver’style hands. This watch is fitted with its original Zenith steel bracelet. The Zenith El Primero automatic movement has been fully serviced by our watchmaker. Sports chronos are such interesting and cool watches to collect. Please get in touch to discuss this rare and intriguing example. Specifications: - Zenith El Primero Chronograph Ref 02.0310.400 - Steel 40mm steel case - Dates to 1990s - Black dial - Black rotating bezel - Mercedes hands - Original Zenith steel bracelet - Zenith El Primero automatic movement - Fully serviced by our watchmaker - Includes a handmade leather watch pouch

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Chronographs and split-seconds watches

A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.

Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.

What to look for

  • Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
  • Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
  • Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
  • Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).

Dating clues

  • Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
  • Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
  • Automatic chronographs: from 1969.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph

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