
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Zenith El Primero Automatic Chronograph (Ref. A385), 1970s
- Maker / attribution
- Zenith (maker)
- Date
- 1970s
- Historical period
- Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- ZEPA385
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (ZEPA385)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1970s Zenith El Primero Automatic Chronograph (Ref. A385) (English)
View the source record (dealer listing) ↗ (opens another website in a new tab)Suggest a correction
Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number ZEPA385), this is a wristwatch by Zenith, made in Switzerland, dated 1970s. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
The Zenith El Primero chronographs were unlike any other chronograph when it was released both aesthetically and mechanically. On January 10th, 1969, Zenith introduced the world's first automatic chronograph caliber, the 3019PHC El Primero, beating out Seiko and the Chronomatic group consisting of Breitling, Heuer, Hamilton, and Büren in the competition to build the first automatic chronograph. What makes the A386 and the other Zenith El Primero-based chronographs true legends and icons is the number of watches outside of the Zenith brand that employed this legendary movement, most notable of which was the first self-winding Rolex Daytona, aka the "Zenith Daytona". Rolex used a modified version of El Primero until the brand released its own in-house automatic chronograph movement in the year 2000. 3019PHC El Primero movement The Zenith ref. A385 is one of the most recognizable and beloved references from the brand and has even been reintroduced for the modern era. The original reference was produced in a very small batch, consisting of approximately 2,400 models in total from 1969-1970, and utilizes the iconic cal. 3019PHC El Primero movement. SPECS Stock # ZEPA385 Brand Zenith Style El Primero Chronograph Model A385 Serial 86XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Brown "Vignette" Millimeters 37.5 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The charmingly geometrical case is in great condition, showing signs of gentle polishing in the past with the original angles and case chamfers intact. The case retains its original crown and pump pushers. The case back is adorned with the Zenith logo medallion and the case serial remains fully present. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original brown vignette dial has a charming vintage aesthetic, showing some subtle elements of age throughout. The printing of the outer tachymeter scale is partially missing. The sub-dials exhibit some light aging and wear which is common for this model. The tritium in the hour markers has aged to a dark grey patina and show no degradation under UV light inspection. The original tritium hour and minute hands match the dial almost perfectly, under UV light inspection the center chronograph hand has aged to a soft orange patina and the lume has been restored with tritium to match the dial. The date wheel at 4 o'clock is partially stained, showing a bright orange patina through some of the numerals. ACCESSORIES
Historical context
Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)
Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.
Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology
Atlas type guide
Chronographs and split-seconds watches
A chronograph is a watch with an additional seconds hand that can be started, stopped and returned to zero independently of the timekeeping. Louis Moinet built an early example in 1816 and Nicolas Rieussec a recording 'chronographe' in 1821; Adolphe Nicole's heart-shaped reset cam (patented 1862) made the modern return-to-zero possible. Split-seconds (rattrapante) chronographs add a second hand that can be stopped for intermediate times; flyback chronographs restart instantly.
Chronographs were essential tools for doctors (pulsometer scales), artillery (telemeter), engineers and sport. In wristwatches, Valjoux, Venus, Lemania and later the automatic chronographs of 1969 (Zenith El Primero, the Chronomatic Calibre 11 group and Seiko 6139) are milestones.
What to look for
- Push-pieces on the case band or a single button in the crown (monopusher).
- Subsidiary registers for minutes and hours; tachymeter, telemeter or pulsometer scales.
- Column wheel versus cam control visible in the movement.
- Calibre markings of specialist makers (Valjoux, Lemania, Venus, Landeron).
Dating clues
- Pocket chronographs with heart cam reset: after 1862.
- Wrist chronographs: from c. 1910; two-button designs from the 1930s.
- Automatic chronographs: from 1969.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
Read next:Flyback chronographChronograph
Related records
Pocket Watches · 1900
Pocket watch by Zenith, Switzerland, 1900
Museum Rotterdam
Pocket Watches · c. 1900s
Zenith pocket watch, c. 1900s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · c. 1980s
Zenith El Primero Triple Calendar Chronograph, ref. 95.0100.418, c. 1980s
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · originally sold in 2022 (per the lot record)
Zenith Chronomaster Original, ref. 03.3202.3600/33.M3200, originally sold in 2022
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
Wristwatches · 1970
Wristwatch by Heno, Switzerland, 1970
Museum Rotterdam
Wristwatches · 1960–1986
'Tri-Compax' calendar chronograph wristwatch in gold case, by Universal, Geneva, Switzerland, 1960–1986.
Science Museum Group, London
Wristwatches · 1969–1970
Beta 21 Quartz wristwatch movement, made in Switzerland, 1970.
Science Museum Group, London
Wristwatches · c. 1969
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, ref. 145022-69st, c. 1969
Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva
