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Unsigned form watch in the shape of a beetle, enamel, rose-cut diamonds and rubies, c. 1890 — view 1 of 3
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Pocket Watches · Form watch

Unsigned form watch in the shape of a beetle, enamel, rose-cut diamonds and rubies, c. 1890

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
c. 1890
Country of origin
Unrecorded in source
Object type
Form watch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Lot
Lot 353-17
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 17, Monaco Auction
Catalogue title (original)
UNSIGNED FORM-WATCH IN THE SHAPE OF A COLEOPTEROUS BEETLE; 18K YELLOW GOLD, ENAMEL, ROSE-CUT DIAMONDS AND RUBIES (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 353-17), this is a form watch, dated c. 1890. The Atlas places it in the Industrial Revolution period (1850 – 1900) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. The record is illustrated with 3 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

18K yellow gold, enamel, rose-cut diamond-set and ruby-set, keyless-winding, form-watch in the shape of a red coleopterous beetle with concealed dial.Inside of the case-back with a glass compartment to hold a miniature or a photographed portrait or a lock of hair of a loved one. Movement cuvette (dome) also glazed.White enamel dial, with radial revolving Arabic numerals; yellow gold “Spade” hands.Movement, 24 x 20 mm., oval-shaped, gilded brass, going barrel, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance (gilded brass) and blued steel flat hairspring, polished steel index-regulator.

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Movement No.: unnumbered; Case No.: unnumbered; Material: 18K yellow gold, enamel, rose-cut diamonds and rubies; Caliber: 24 x 20 mm., oval-shaped, cylinder escapement; Dimensions: 56.8 x 25 mm. (without pendant); Weight: 41.6 gr. (approx.)

Historical context

Industrial Revolution (1850 – 1900)

American interchangeable-parts manufacture; railroad time standards; Swiss and German factory systems.

Machine production with interchangeable parts, pioneered by Waltham (1850s) and adopted by Elgin, Longines, Omega and others, made reliable lever watches widely affordable. Keyless winding became standard, railroad watch standards were introduced (1890s), and Swiss and American industries competed globally.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Precision & Scientific Horology

Atlas type guide

Early spring-driven watches

Portable spring-driven timepieces appeared in southern Germany, France and Italy in the early sixteenth century; Peter Henlein of Nuremberg is traditionally credited, although the historical record is complex. These early watches were worn as pendants or carried, had iron or brass movements with a verge escapement and a foliot or small balance, and used a stackfreed or fusee to equalise spring force. They indicated hours only and were notoriously inaccurate.

From the later sixteenth century watches were made in Blois, Paris, Geneva, London and Augsburg in oval, octagonal, cruciform, skull and other 'form' cases of rock crystal, gilt brass, silver and enamel. They were jewellery and status objects as much as timekeepers.

What to look for

  • A single hour hand and often a touch-pin hour ring for feeling the time.
  • Stackfreed (a cam and spring) instead of a fusee on German watches.
  • Pierced and engraved cocks over the balance, fine gut fusee lines.
  • Rock-crystal, enamelled or engraved form cases.

Dating clues

  • Drum-shaped German watches: c. 1530–1580.
  • Oval and form watches: c. 1580–1650.
  • Before c. 1675 there is no balance spring; watches can vary by many minutes a day.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Verge escapementFuseeFoliotThe Melanchthon watch

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