Universal Genève Compax Chronograph Silver Dial Burgundy ref. 884.485, 1990

Dealer description — Bulang & Sons

Universal Genève is one of the great names in Swiss watchmaking. Founded in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch, the brand earned a reputation for pioneering wrist chronographs and elegant dress watches. It reached its golden era during the mid-20th century before being severely impacted by the Quartz Crisis. In late 2023, Universal Genève was acquired by Breitling, with a comprehensive revival of the historic manufacture now underway. In 1936, Universal Genève introduced the Compax, the world's first chronograph wristwatch equipped with a 12-hour counter. The collection would later expand into celebrated variants such as the Aero-Compax, the Uni-Compax, and the flagship Tri-Compax, which combined a chronograph with a full calendar and moonphase display. These innovations earned Universal Genève the nickname "The King of Chronographs." In the United States, the brand was distributed by the Henri Stern Agency—the exclusive importer of Patek Philippe—further reinforcing its reputation among discerning collectors. Today, vintage references such as the Tri-Compax "Eric Clapton" and the Compax "Nina Rindt" remain among the most desirable Universal Genève models, prized for their rarity, timeless design, and historical significance. Presented here is the Compax reference 884.485, often referred to by collectors as the "Compax 1950" or "Baby Nina." Produced during the 1990s, this handsome neo-vintage chronograph was created as Universal Genève looked to recapture the spirit of its legendary 1960s chronographs—most notably the iconic "Nina Rindt." The watch features a beautifully proportioned 37mm stainless steel case with an acrylic crystal, classic pump pushers, and a striking burgundy tachymeter bezel that gives the watch a distinctive sporting character. Its silver dial is equally attractive, fitted with applied boat-shaped hour markers, an applied Universal Genève logo, and three contrasting burgundy sub-dials that echo the bezel perfectly. A set of polished dauphine hands completes the design, giving the watch a refined yet unmistakably masculine presence. The watch is powered by a hand wound UG cal. 84 (based on a Lemania 1873)movement that has been fully serviced by our watch maker. A splash of burgundy makes everything better & Neo-vintage done exactly right. We'd happily wear this one ourselves, get in touch! Specifications: Universal Genève Compax chronograph reference 884.485 37mm steel case with burgundy colour tachymeter bezel Serial 408xxxx dates to 1990’s Non lume silver dial with burgundy red sub dials ,Dauphine hands UG Calibre 84 manual wind movement Bulang and sons leather strap Fully serviced by our watchmaker