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Tissot wristwatch, ref. OR, Navigator, circa 1953/ 1996 — view 1 of 1
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Wristwatches · Wristwatch

Tissot wristwatch, ref. OR, Navigator, circa 1953/ 1996

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Tissot (brand / maker)
Date
c. 1953/ 1996
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Materials / technique
18k yellow gold
Dimensions
diameter 36 mm
Lot
Lot 377-39
Credit line
Auction lot record: LOT 39, Geneva, May 10th-11th, 2025
Catalogue title (original)
TISSOT, SWITZERLAND, REF. OR 4001/ Z 197, NAVIGATOR, 18K YELLOW GOLD AND STEEL (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Antiquorum auction archive, Geneva (lot Lot 377-39), this is a wristwatch by Tissot, made in Switzerland, dated c. 1953/ 1996. The Atlas places it in the Quartz Revolution period (1969 – 1990) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k yellow gold. Recorded dimensions: diameter 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Antiquorum catalogue description

A fine and rare, set of 2 limited edition, 18k yellow gold and stainless steel, self winding world time wristwatches

Lot specifications (Antiquorum)

Model: Navigator; Limited Edition: 90/100, 0215/1800; Reference: OR 4001/ Z 197; Movement No.: 2799031; Caliber: 28.5 N-21T, 17 jewels, 2893-3, 21 jewels; Diameter: 36; Signature: dial, case and movement, dial and case; Accessories: boxes, instruction booklet, guarantee

Inscriptions & marks

dial, case and movement, dial and case

Historical context

Quartz Revolution (1969 – 1990)

Seiko's Astron begins mass quartz timekeeping; traditional industries contract sharply.

Quartz and digital watches transformed the market after 1969. Swiss employment collapsed, Japanese and Hong Kong production soared, and the Swatch (1983) helped the Swiss industry recover; mechanical watches survived as luxury goods.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Modern Mechanical Horology

Atlas type guide

Military, pilot and travel watches

The wristwatch owes much of its adoption by men to warfare and aviation. Wristlets — small pocket watches soldered with lugs and worn on a strap — were used in colonial campaigns and became standard equipment in the First World War, with protective grilles over the crystal ('shrapnel guards'). Louis Cartier's Santos (1904), designed for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, is often cited as an early purpose-made pilot's watch.

In the Second World War governments specified watches in detail: the German B-Uhr observation watches, the American A-11, and the British 'W.W.W.' (the 'Dirty Dozen' set of 1945). After the war, jet travel brought GMT and world-time watches, which show two or more time zones at once — Louis Cottier's world-time mechanism and the Rolex GMT-Master (1955) are examples.

What to look for

  • Military markings on the case back: broad arrow, issue numbers, 'W.W.W.', 'A.T.P.'
  • High-legibility black dials with luminous Arabic numerals; oversized crowns for gloved hands.
  • 24-hour hands and rotating 24-hour bezels or city rings on GMT/world-time watches.
  • Wire lugs on early wristlets converted from pocket watches.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug wristlets: c. 1900–1925.
  • Military specifications of the Second World War: 1939–1945.
  • GMT and world-time wristwatches: mainly after 1950.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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