
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Rolex Explorer 1 Tritium, 1997
- Maker / attribution
- Rolex (maker)
- Date
- 1997
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Dimensions
- Case 36 mm
- Stock no.
- Product 7513404309687
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Huntington Company (product 7513404309687)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1997 Rolex Explorer 1 Tritium - Box & Papers (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Huntington Company (dealer) (stock number Product 7513404309687), this is a wristwatch by Rolex, made in Switzerland, dated 1997. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Huntington Company
Reference 14270 Box, Booklets, Calendar, Papers Specifications Year: 1997 Model: Explorer 1 Case Diameter: 36mm Lug to Lug: 43mm Case: Stainless Steel Dial: Black Movement: Automatic Condition Starting with the dial, the tritium lume is amazing on the hands and dial. The case looks to have been lightly polished in the past but is still nice and clean. The watch comes with its original box and papers. An important thing to note is this explorer is from 1997 which means it was the final production year of the tritium dials. The Story In the mid 1950s, Rolex introduced the caliber 1030, their first complete in-house built and designed movement. This new movement required a new generation Explorer, leading to the introduction of the reference 6610 in 1956. The 6610 was slimmer than its predecessors, with a 36mm case design and a flatter caseback. The dials were all glossy black with gold text, and some rare versions had a depth rating. In 1963, Rolex introduced the Explorer 1016, one of the longest running sports watch references. Production ceased in 1989, but minor changes occurred, including the introduction of the caliber 1560, a chronometer-rated movement, and the 1570, which added a hacking feature. The 1016s were also rated to a slightly deeper depth rating at 100m. One of the biggest changes in the 1016's lifespan was the shift from Radium to tritium for luminous materials on the hands. The 1016 Explorer featured matte dials with text printed onto the dial surface. Towards the end of the 1980s, Rolex introduced the next generation Explorer, the reference 14720. This watch replaced acrylic crystal with scratch-resistant sapphire glass, giving it a more modern feel on the wrist. The dial replaced painted numerals with white gold numbers filled with luminous material, initially tritium, and then luminova for lume. The reference 114720 was introduced in 2000, powered by the 3000 series movement. The Brand Wilsdorf & Davis was initially a watch importer, but by 1908, Wilsdorf had registered 'Rolex' as a trademark. The name was chosen after trial and error, with some believing it was taken from the phrase 'horological Excellence' or because the word sounds like a watch being wound. Wilsdorf was aware of the power of branding and began a long campaign to get the new company name on the watches he exported. The relationship between Rolex and Aegler started the same year that Wilsdorf & Davis set up the business, placing the largest order for wristwatches ever seen. Wilsdorf was attracted by Aegler's commitment to the highest quality, as their movements were extremely accurate and small. In 1910, one of Rolex's models won a First Class Chronometer Certificate from the rating office in Bienne, Switzerland, and in 1914, another piece became the first ever wristwatch to be granted a Class A Chronometer Certificate from the Kew Observatory in England, the only non-marine timepiece to ever achieve it. The firm of Wilsdorf & Davis became synonymous with a commitment to uncompromising excellence. WWI in 1914 led to the rebranding of Wilsdorf & Davis as Rolex in 1915. The British government imposed a 33.3% tax on luxury goods, forcing Rolex to relocate to Bienne. Despite the war, the wristwatch proved its utility, as it was used by soldiers during combat and in the field. Rolex produced trench watches, using Aegler's small movements for wearability. By the end of the war, wristwatches became a utilitarian accessory for men. In the years between the wars, Rolex asserted its independence, partnering with Carl F. Bucherer to resist the Federation of Swiss Watch Manufacturers. In 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster case, making wristwatches waterproof, dustproof, and robust. Wilsdorf capitalized on this innovation by installing Rolex Ambassadors, or 'Testimonies', with celebrities as a marketing masterstroke. During WWII, Switzerland retained its neutrality, meaning that it was one of the few countries not forced to shut down watch manufacturing to supply the war effort. As a result, by the end of hostilities, the Swiss watch industry was way ahead of other nations. Rolex truly came of age in the 1950s by launching some of the most enduring legends in watchmaking, such as the Explorer, Submariner, GMT-Master, Day-Date, and Milgauss. The quartz crisis of the 1970s and 80s forced the company to change tactics but ultimately repositioned itself as the purveyor of the ultimate luxury lifestyle. Today, the name Rolex is synonymous with refinement, opulence, and personal accomplishment. The Rolex brand as we know it today is the byproduct of an unrelenting drive for excellence and over a hundred years of refinement and development, all in pursuit of the brand’s singular goal of making the world’s best wristwatch.
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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