Roger Dubuis Sympathie 37 Chronograph Rose Gold Bronze Subdials, 2000s

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

Long before Roger Dubuis became associated with extravagant complications and bold contemporary designs, the brand stood for something entirely different. Founded in 1995 by Roger Dubuis himself together with Carlos Dias, its earliest years were defined by restrained elegance, exceptional movement finishing and uncompromising watchmaking. During this formative period, the entire collection consisted of just two families, the round Hommage and the distinctive Sympathie. Produced in relatively small numbers and powered almost exclusively by beautifully finished Lemania and Nouvelle Lémania calibres, these early Roger Dubuis watches have become increasingly recognised as the purest expression of the manufacture's original vision. It is these early references that collectors regard as the true Roger Dubuis. Introduced alongside the Hommage, the Sympathie offered a completely different interpretation of traditional Swiss watchmaking. Rather than a conventional round or tonneau case, Roger Dubuis created a uniquely flowing silhouette that combined soft curves with crisp architectural lines, resulting in one of the most recognisable case designs of the late 1990s. Early examples, such as the present watch, were distinguished by their beautifully contoured sapphire crystal, following every curve of the case rather than relying on the simpler flat crystal adopted on later references. This seemingly small detail has become one of the defining characteristics collectors look for today, firmly placing these watches amongst the most desirable early Roger Dubuis creations. Here we have the Roger Dubuis Sympathie 37 Chronograph in pink gold. Measuring 37mm across, it strikes what many collectors consider to be the ideal size within the Sympathie family. More wearable than the later 40mm references while offering noticeably greater presence than the smaller 34mm model, the S37 perfectly complements the fluid proportions of the case. Executed in warm pink gold with beautifully alternating brushed and polished surfaces, the sculptural case remains one of Roger Dubuis' most distinctive designs and wears unlike anything else produced during the period. The dial is equally captivating. Executed as a silver sector dial with contrasting bronze subdials, it possesses a richness and warmth that immediately distinguishes it from the more familiar Sympathie chronographs. The exploding tachymeter scale frames the dial beautifully, while skeletonised pink gold hands preserve the openness of the display without sacrificing legibility. Characteristic Roger Dubuis attention to detail is evident throughout, from the blued chronograph seconds hand and matching blued 3 o'clock minute counter, to the contrasting gold running seconds hand at 9 o'clock. Even amongst early Sympathie chronographs, this configuration is exceptionally rare, with each dial variant believed to have been limited to just 28 examples. It is a wonderfully balanced composition that combines classical Swiss watch design with just enough individuality to remind you that this could only be a Roger Dubuis. Powering the watch is the manual-winding Calibre RD56, based on the legendary Lemania 2310, one of the finest chronograph movements ever produced. Chosen by some of the greatest names in Swiss watchmaking as the foundation for their own chronographs, the Lemania architecture has earned a reputation for both its technical excellence and elegant construction. Roger Dubuis elevated it further through exceptional finishing worthy of a Geneva Seal, notably including a beautifully black-polished, capped column wheel, a feature famously found on some of Patek Philippe's finest Lemania-based chronographs, together with the traditional horizontal clutch that makes the movement such a pleasure to both admire and operate. It remains one of the defining chronograph calibres of the twentieth century and perfectly reflects the uncompromising standards upon which Roger Dubuis built its reputation. As far as wearability goes, the 37mm Sympathie remains remarkably contemporary. The flowing case wears proportionately well, sitting naturally on the wrist while offering a wonderful balance between elegance and presence. Interest in early Roger Dubuis has grown considerably over the past few years as collectors have begun to separate the brand's formative period from everything that followed. Much like the earliest independent watchmakers of the modern era, these watches were produced in exceptionally small numbers, powered by some of the finest traditional movements available and finished to standards that rivalled the very best of Swiss watchmaking. Amongst them, the Sympathie occupies a particularly special place. Beautifully proportioned, mechanically exceptional and exceptionally rare, it represents everything that made Roger Dubuis' earliest years so extraordinary.