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Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'First Reference', early 2000s

DocumentedDocumented from a dealer's listing; attribution and date as stated by the dealer.
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe (maker)
Date
early 2000s
Country of origin
Switzerland
Object type
Wristwatch
Dimensions
Case 36 mm
Stock no.
40930650
Credit line
Dealer listing, Analog/Shift (40930650)
Catalogue title (original)
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'First Reference' (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Analog/Shift (dealer), New York (stock number 40930650), this is a wristwatch by Patek Philippe, made in Switzerland, dated early 2000s. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Recorded dimensions: Case 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut may be one of the most important modern luxury sport watches on the market. The Reference 5060J, launched in 1996 for the 20th anniversary of the Nautilus, was a sort of transitional watch. Borrowing features from the Nautilus but doing away with the famed case “ears” of that porthole-inspired model and adding lugs, it provided the basis for the Reference 5060A in 1997, the first model actually bearing the Aquanaut name. The Aquanaut would go on to form the basis of a full collection of luxury sports watches that provided the entry point into the Patek Philippe catalog. This particular Aquanaut hails from this legendary reference. Dating to the early 2000s, this piece features a 36mm stainless steel case with a satin finished bezel and polished facets. Accompanied by a signed screw-down crown, sapphire crystal and 120 meters of water resistance, this is an easy choice for the go-anywhere, do-anything steel sports watch from the maison . Featuring a stern black colorway with signature hobnail texturing, the luminous dial houses a set of applied ‘Arabic’ indices, block markers, a ‘stick’ handset and a date window at 3 o’clock with a thinner, cursive font as opposed to the thicker, bolder font in later References. Another distinguishable feature is the closed, screw caseback protecting the self-winding Calibre 330 SC packed with 30 jewels, offering 48 hours of power reserve and a handy quick-set date mechanism In great condition throughout showing light signs wear, this piece delivers all the class of a neo vintage Patek Philippe sports piece. If a luxury sports watch in the perfect size is what you’re after, stop right here —you've found it.

Historical context

Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)

Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.

Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.

Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution

Atlas type guide

Wristwatches

Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.

After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.

What to look for

  • The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
  • The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
  • Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
  • Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.

Dating clues

  • Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
  • Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
  • Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

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