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Painted Enamel and Rock-Crystal Cased Verge Watch — view 1 of 6
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Pocket Watches · Watch

Painted Enamel and Rock-Crystal Cased Verge Watch

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Jaques Sermand (Made by)
Date
1650–1660
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Geneva (city)
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
rock crystal, gold, enamel
Dimensions
Diameter: 54.90 millimetres (case) Thickness: 23.80 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1958,1201.2341
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Painted Enamel and Rock-Crystal Cased Verge Watch (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1958,1201.2341), this is a watch by Jaques Sermand, made in Geneva (city), Switzerland, dated 1650–1660. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: rock crystal, gold, enamel. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 54.90 millimetres (case) Thickness: 23.80 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Painted Enamel and Rock-Crystal Cased Verge Watch. Case: Painted enamel and rock-crystal case, with hinged glazed lid. The gold rims to the body and bezel are decorated with flowers in polychrome painted enamels. The lid is glazed with a single piece of rock-crystal cut with 12 lobed facets around a small concave circular centre. The body of the case is similar in design to the bezel but where the bezel has been ground flat over the area within the chapter-ring, the back retains its domed shape. There are four lugs in the edge of the pillar-plate to engage in recesses in the case-band. The case body is cut from a single piece of crystal and shaped in a similar manner to the lid to follow the shape of the case and bezel rims. There is no case catch. The pillar-plate is hinged to the case at XII. Gold pendant and finial decorated with polychrome enamels similar to the rims. Dial & Hand: Gold dial, pinned directly to the pillar-plate. the dial enamelled all over with an outer white enamel chapter-ring with Roman hours I-XII and foliate half-hour marks within two exposed gold circles. In the centre a painted enamel landscape showing a castle gatehouse over a moat. Blued-steel hand. : Movement Frame: Circular gilt-brass plates with four baluster pillars. Riveted potence pierced and shaped as a foliate scroll. Riveted counter-potence, replaced. Engraved decoration around the verge aperture. : Mainspring & Set-Up: Gilt-brass barrel with dovetailed cap and riveted steel hook. Tangent screw set-up on the potence-plate with two pierced steel brackets for the worm gear. : Fusee & Stop-Work: Gilt-brass fusee, with gut-line and English stop-work. The profile of the fusee has been changed to make it suitable for a later chain which has since been replaced with gut-line. Very elaborate foliate stop-work spring and stop-iron. : Train: Three wheel train, the second wheel replaced. : Escapement & Balance: Verge escapement, the verge and balance not original. The crown wheel arbor shortened and the counter-potence replaced. Screwed-on balance cock, pierced and engraved with foliate scrolls. : Duration: 28 Hours.

Curator's comments — British Museum

The main body of the case is possibly a replacement. There is damage to the rims at III-IIII where the watch may have received a hard knock which removed most of the enamel and even some of the gold. This may also have broken the case-back. In comparison with the lid, the finish of the back is soft. The lid is ground off flat but the back has no clearly defined edge to its flat area, the change in direction being much more gradual. The inside has been cut out using one large diameter grinding wheel. On the other hand the back may be original and the lid may have been ground off flat at a later date[DRT.2/92] See Huygens Ouevre Vol.II Appendix. letter no.69 Constantine to Christian January 5th 1650. He had just bought a watch 'a la mode' with a case made from rock crystal that permitted a view of the movement such as one would see if the case was made of ice'. Such watches were exported both as complete pieces with movements signed by Genevan watchmakers and as empty cases for use by foreign watchmakers. Three crystal cases for clock watches were ordered in 1623 by Pierre Lourteau(active 1603-1628) a watchmaker in Lyon, France from the Genevan lapidary Paul Tillier. Clare Vincent and J.H.Leopold, European Clocks and Watches in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2015, p.72 Also Constantine Huygens' Diary 4th Dec. 1649. [JHL 2/92] Bibliography: Good, Richard, WATCHES IN COLOUR, Poole, 1978, plate 6.

Inscriptions & marks

signature; J Sermand à Geneve [potence-plate]

Provenance

Previous owner/ex-collection:, Courtenay Adrian Ilbert, Previous owner/ex-collection:, Ida Netter, Previous owner/ex-collection:, Otto Koch; Acquired 1958

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Verge and pair-cased watches

After Christiaan Huygens and Robert Hooke applied the balance spring around 1675, the verge watch became a reasonably reliable timekeeper and the minute hand became standard. Through the eighteenth century the typical English watch was a pair-cased verge: a fusee movement with a pierced, engraved balance cock, housed in an inner case and a separate protective outer case, often of repoussé gold, shagreen, tortoiseshell or enamel.

French watches of the same period were thicker 'oignons', later replaced by elegant thinner watches following Jean-Antoine Lépine's bar-bridge calibre of c. 1770. Dutch, Swiss and German makers supplied international markets, and verge watches were made until the mid-nineteenth century as cheaper alternatives to the cylinder and lever.

What to look for

  • The pierced balance cock on the backplate: winged (continental) or with a foot (English); its style dates the watch.
  • Fusee and chain visible through the movement; key winding through the dial (early) or case back.
  • Hallmarks inside English silver or gold cases, which give a date letter.
  • Maker's name and serial number engraved on the backplate; watch papers inside outer cases.
  • Enamel dials (after c. 1720) versus earlier champlevé metal dials.

Dating clues

  • Champlevé dials: c. 1680–1730; white enamel dials thereafter.
  • English case hallmarks give the year of assay to within a year.
  • Verge watches persisted in cheap production until c. 1850.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Balance spring (hairspring)Verge escapement

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