Silver, gilt brass and rock crystal watch in the form of a tulip, movement signed 'Senebier', Geneva, Switzerland, 1635-50 — view 1 of 4
View 1 of 4 · Image: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London · original image source

Pocket Watches · Watch

Silver, gilt brass and rock crystal watch in the form of a tulip, movement signed 'Senebier', Geneva, Switzerland, 1635-50

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Senebier (movement)
Date
1635-50
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Geneva
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
Silver, gilded brass and rock crystal
Dimensions
Height: 4.5 cm; Width: 3.1 cm; Depth: 3.1 cm; Height: 5.2 cm (With suspension loop)
Accession / object no.
237-1853

View the source record ↗

Record summary

Held and catalogued by Victoria and Albert Museum, London (object number 237-1853), this is a watch by Senebier, made in Geneva, Switzerland, dated 1635-50. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: Silver, gilded brass and rock crystal. Recorded dimensions: Height: 4.5 cm; Width: 3.1 cm; Depth: 3.1 cm; Height: 5.2 cm (With suspension loop). The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

V&A — Physical description

Silver, gilt brass and crystal watch in the form of a flower bud, top-plate engraved 'Senebier'. Crystal case mounted in bronze and silver gilt with three oval openings, each covered by a hinged silver lid with oval crystal window. The movement hinges outwards through one of the openings. Silver dial. Roman numeral hours, with arrow-heads at the half-hours. Floral engraving in the dial centre. Hand missing. Oval brass movement plates, the backplate engraved 'Senebier', the signature surrounded by engraving. Baluster pillars. Fusee and gut line. Brass wheels. The verge, balance and cock all missing. Mainspring formerly with tangent-screw set-up, but the screw now missing.

V&A — Object history

Bought for £15 and accessioned in 1853. A watch by Jean-Henry Ester, 1640-50, (1874,0718.37) in the British Museum has a similar case. The pendant (suspension loop) on the Ester watch is formed of a looped stem. A similar watch by Jean Rousseau also has the suspension loop formed of a looped stem (Skinner, Boston, MA, USA, 1 December 2012, lot 258). For a watch by Ester with a garnet-set and enamelled bud, see V&A Inv. no. 785-1901.

Inscriptions & marks

engraved 'Senebier'

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Pocket watches

The pocket watch was the dominant personal timekeeper from the late seventeenth century until the First World War. Its development tracks the history of the escapement: verge watches with fusees until the late eighteenth century; Thomas Mudge's lever escapement (c. 1755) and the cylinder escapement popularised by George Graham and later by Swiss makers; and the Swiss and English lever watches of the nineteenth century. Lépine's bar-bridge calibre and keyless winding made watches thinner and easier to use.

Industrialisation transformed the trade: American factories such as Waltham (from 1850) and Elgin produced interchangeable parts by machine, and Swiss makers responded with their own mechanisation after the 1876 Philadelphia Exhibition. By 1900 a reliable watch was affordable to millions; the finest makers continued to produce complications and precision watches.

What to look for

  • The escapement: verge (crown wheel), cylinder, duplex, English or Swiss lever.
  • Key winding (a square arbor in dial or back) or keyless crown winding.
  • Signatures and serial numbers on the movement, dial and inside case back.
  • Hallmarks, case maker's marks and gold or silver standards stamped in the case.
  • Dial material: enamel, silver, gold, later printed metal.

Dating clues

  • Verge watches dominate before c. 1800; cylinder watches c. 1770–1900; lever watches after c. 1820.
  • Keyless winding: increasingly common after c. 1860.
  • Manufacturer serial number lists exist for Waltham, Elgin, Longines, Omega, Patek Philippe and others.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Detached lever escapementIdentification Centre

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