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Late 17th century French 'Oignon' gilt-metal verge pocket watch — view 1 of 1
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Pocket Watches · Pocket watch

Late 17th century French 'Oignon' gilt-metal verge pocket watch

DocumentedDocumented from an auction catalogue; attribution as stated by the auction house.
Maker / attribution
Unrecorded in source
Date
Late 17th century
Country of origin
France
Object type
Pocket watch
Materials / technique
gilt
Dimensions
Diameter 59 mm
Lot
Sale 45, lot 665
Credit line
Auction lot record: lot 665, The Watch Auction - Pocket Watches, Gardiner Houlgate (25th October 2023)
Catalogue title (original)
Late 17th century French 'Oignon' gilt-metal verge pocket watch, the fusee movement signed Langlois Á Paris, with large pierced engraved balance bridge, three arm balance, silvered regulating disc and (English)

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Record summary

Catalogued by Gardiner Houlgate (auction house), Corsham (lot Sale 45, lot 665), this is a pocket watch, made in France, dated Late 17th century. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: gilt. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 59 mm. The record is illustrated with 1 photograph.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Lot description — Gardiner Houlgate

Late 17th century French 'Oignon' gilt-metal verge pocket watch, the fusee movement signed Langlois Á Paris, with large pierced engraved balance bridge, three arm balance, silvered regulating disc and elongated Egyptian pillars, the embossed gilt engraved dial with enamelled cartouche Roman numerals, outer minute track with enamelled five minute divisions, enamelled inner track and winding hole at the three position, blued steel beetle and poker hands, within an engraved gilt consular case, 59mm (the movement requires attention)

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Verge and pair-cased watches

After Christiaan Huygens and Robert Hooke applied the balance spring around 1675, the verge watch became a reasonably reliable timekeeper and the minute hand became standard. Through the eighteenth century the typical English watch was a pair-cased verge: a fusee movement with a pierced, engraved balance cock, housed in an inner case and a separate protective outer case, often of repoussé gold, shagreen, tortoiseshell or enamel.

French watches of the same period were thicker 'oignons', later replaced by elegant thinner watches following Jean-Antoine Lépine's bar-bridge calibre of c. 1770. Dutch, Swiss and German makers supplied international markets, and verge watches were made until the mid-nineteenth century as cheaper alternatives to the cylinder and lever.

What to look for

  • The pierced balance cock on the backplate: winged (continental) or with a foot (English); its style dates the watch.
  • Fusee and chain visible through the movement; key winding through the dial (early) or case back.
  • Hallmarks inside English silver or gold cases, which give a date letter.
  • Maker's name and serial number engraved on the backplate; watch papers inside outer cases.
  • Enamel dials (after c. 1720) versus earlier champlevé metal dials.

Dating clues

  • Champlevé dials: c. 1680–1730; white enamel dials thereafter.
  • English case hallmarks give the year of assay to within a year.
  • Verge watches persisted in cheap production until c. 1850.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Balance spring (hairspring)Verge escapement

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