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Pocket Watches · Watch

Gold and Enamel Cased Verge Watch

DocumentedDocumented from the holding institution's catalogue record.
Maker / attribution
Estienne Ester (Made by)
Date
1670–1675
Country of origin
Switzerland
Place
Geneva (city)
Object type
Watch
Materials / technique
enamel, gold
Dimensions
Diameter: 38.40 millimetres (case) Thickness: 17.90 millimetres
Holding institution
British Museum
Accession / object no.
1958,1201.3065
Credit line
British Museum, London
Catalogue title (original)
Gold and Enamel Cased Verge Watch (English)

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Record summary

Held and catalogued by British Museum (object number 1958,1201.3065), this is a watch by Estienne Ester, made in Geneva (city), Switzerland, dated 1670–1675. The Atlas places it in the Early Modern Horology period (1600 – 1750) of its Pocket Watches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: enamel, gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter: 38.40 millimetres (case) Thickness: 17.90 millimetres. The record is illustrated with 4 photographs.

Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.

Catalogue description

Description — British Museum

Gold and Enamel Cased Verge Watch. Case: Gold and enamel case with a hinged bezel split and glazed. The bezel engraved with a gadroon design. The body of the gold cased is decorated all over, inside and out with painted enamel scenes. On the back is a depiction of Venus and Adonis in the forest with a hound and two amorati. Around the band, a series of four vignettes alternate with black and white enamelled foliate straps, the vignettes each containing a landscape. Gold pendant, the loose ring now missing. : Dial and Hand: Pinned directly to the pillar-plate within an engraved gadroon border, is a gold dial with painted enamel decoration. Around the outside the white enamel chapter-ring has Roman hours I-XII and straight-line half-hour marks surrounding a quarter-circle. In the centre the painted enamel scene shows a seated Diana with a hound. The gilt-brass hand is a replacement. Movement frame: Circular gilt-brass plates with four rectangular pillars overlaid with pierced silver panels depicting winged cherubs. Riveted potence and riveted counter-potence. Engraved decoration around the verge aperture. Riveted to the potence-plate is an applied silver cartouche with a winged cherubs head at the top and a winged cherub at each side. The central oval is open to reveal the engraved signature on the potence-plate below. Mainspring & set-up: Gilt-brass barrel with snap-in cap and riveted steel hook. Tangent-screw set-up with two pierced steel brackets for the worm gear. Silver index disc engraved 1-6. Fusee & stop-work: Gilt-brass fusee with chain and English stop-work, the stop-work spring and block covered by an elaborately pierced blued-steel screen. Train: Four wheel train of gilt-brass wheels, the second, third and contrate with three crossings. Escapement and balance: Verge escapement with plain steel 2-arm balance. Screwed-on balance cock with silver half-baluster foot and blued-steel table pierced and engraved with foliate scrolls.

Inscriptions & marks

signature; in a cartouche on the back plate; Estienn Ester

Provenance

Previous owner/ex-collection:, Courtenay Adrian Ilbert, Previous owner/ex-collection:, Ida Netter, Previous owner/ex-collection:, Otto Koch

Historical context

Early Modern Horology (1600 – 1750)

Huygens' pendulum and balance spring transform accuracy; English makers develop the anchor and deadbeat escapements.

The balance spring (c. 1675) improved watches dramatically and introduced the minute hand. English pair-cased verge watches with pierced balance cocks and French oignons were typical; enamel painting at Blois and Geneva, and the repeating watch (1680s), made watches objects of great refinement.

Read the period in the timelineMore pocket watches from this periodEarlier: Renaissance Horology

Atlas type guide

Verge and pair-cased watches

After Christiaan Huygens and Robert Hooke applied the balance spring around 1675, the verge watch became a reasonably reliable timekeeper and the minute hand became standard. Through the eighteenth century the typical English watch was a pair-cased verge: a fusee movement with a pierced, engraved balance cock, housed in an inner case and a separate protective outer case, often of repoussé gold, shagreen, tortoiseshell or enamel.

French watches of the same period were thicker 'oignons', later replaced by elegant thinner watches following Jean-Antoine Lépine's bar-bridge calibre of c. 1770. Dutch, Swiss and German makers supplied international markets, and verge watches were made until the mid-nineteenth century as cheaper alternatives to the cylinder and lever.

What to look for

  • The pierced balance cock on the backplate: winged (continental) or with a foot (English); its style dates the watch.
  • Fusee and chain visible through the movement; key winding through the dial (early) or case back.
  • Hallmarks inside English silver or gold cases, which give a date letter.
  • Maker's name and serial number engraved on the backplate; watch papers inside outer cases.
  • Enamel dials (after c. 1720) versus earlier champlevé metal dials.

Dating clues

  • Champlevé dials: c. 1680–1730; white enamel dials thereafter.
  • English case hallmarks give the year of assay to within a year.
  • Verge watches persisted in cheap production until c. 1850.

General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.

Read next:Balance spring (hairspring)Verge escapement

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