Daniel Roth Extra Plat 2107 1st Generation, 1990s

Dealer description — S.Song Watches

When discussing the pioneers of independent watchmaking, names such as Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, and F.P. Journe inevitably dominate the conversation. Yet long before independent watchmaking became a recognised category of collecting, there was Daniel Roth. Few watchmakers have influenced modern horology as profoundly as Roth. Following the acquisition of Breguet by Chaumet in the late 1970s, he played a pivotal role in reviving the historic manufacture and establishing much of the design language collectors now associate with modern Breguet watches. The hand-guilloché dials, straight lugs, coin-edge cases, and classical proportions that define the brand today can all be traced back to his influence. Beyond Breguet, he was also involved in the development of complicated movements at Lemania, whose calibres would go on to power chronographs for some of Switzerland's most prestigious watchmakers. The watch offered here is an early Daniel Roth 2107 "Extra Plat" in platinum with a grey guilloché dial. Produced during the brand's formative years, first-generation examples such as this are seldom encountered today, particularly in platinum. What sets the platinum Extra Plat apart from its yellow and white gold counterparts is its case construction. While most examples feature a snap-on caseback, platinum models were fitted with a screw-down caseback instead. This was not a stylistic decision, but a practical one. At just 6.5mm thick, producing an ultra-thin case in platinum presented unique engineering challenges, and the additional screws were necessary to ensure sufficient structural rigidity. As a result, platinum examples were produced in far smaller numbers than their gold counterparts. Combined with their distinctive construction, they represent some of the most desirable and collectable members of the 2107 family, offering a fascinating insight into the technical considerations behind Daniel Roth's pursuit of elegant ultra-thin watchmaking. Housed within the brand's signature 35mm × 38mm Ellipsocurvex case, the 2107 demonstrates Daniel Roth's ability to balance classical watchmaking with a highly individual approach to design. Neither round nor rectangular, the Ellipsocurvex is one of those forms that has only become more distinctive with time. What once appeared unconventional now feels unmistakably Daniel Roth. Executed in platinum, the case possesses a quiet presence while preserving the elegant proportions that define the watch. The grey guilloché dial further reinforces the watch's cohesive character. Its restrained monochromatic palette allows the various textures to speak for themselves, from the signature pinstripe guilloché centre to the brushed chapter ring. More than three decades after its introduction, the overall design remains remarkably contemporary, a testament to how successfully Roth combined classical influences with his own distinctive design sensibility. A closer examination reveals numerous details influenced by his years at Breguet. The straight lugs, stepped bezel, engine-turned guilloché dial, Roman numerals, and blued steel hands all reflect the aesthetic vocabulary he helped establish during his tenure there. The contrast between the sharply executed pinstripe guilloché centre and brushed chapter ring creates depth and texture without relying on colour or ornamentation. Compared to many of Roth's more complicated creations, the 2107 is notably restrained. As a time-only watch, there is little for the eye to hide behind. Its appeal lies in its proportions, dial execution, and case architecture, qualities that become increasingly apparent the longer one spends with it. Powering the watch is an automatic movement based on the Frederic Piguet Cal. 71, one of the thinnest automatic calibres of its era. Favoured by numerous high-end manufacturers for its slimness and technical versatility, the calibre's offset rotor architecture was designed to facilitate modular construction while maintaining an exceptionally thin profile. It therefore reflects the watch's "Extra Plat" designation perfectly, a term used by Daniel Roth to emphasise its ultra-thin construction. Interest in Daniel Roth's work has grown considerably in recent years, driven in part by the revival of the brand under LVMH through La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. While the modern watches pay tribute to Roth's original designs, collectors have increasingly turned their attention to the watches produced during the brand's formative years. Elegant, restrained, and immediately recognisable, the 2107 remains one of the purest expressions of what made Daniel Roth such an important figure in modern watchmaking. As collectors continue to rediscover his early work, platinum examples from this period have become increasingly difficult to source, combining rarity with a direct connection to the years when Roth himself remained closely involved in shaping the identity of the brand.