
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Breguet Classique Moonphase Power Reserve, ref. 3130, 1990
- Maker / attribution
- Breguet (maker)
- Date
- 1990
- Historical period
- Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Materials / technique
- 18k Yellow Gold
- Dimensions
- Diameter 36 mm
- Stock no.
- CUR401
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Watches of Knightsbridge (CUR401)
- Catalogue title (original)
- Breguet Classique Moonphase Power Reserve 3130 (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Watches of Knightsbridge (dealer), London (stock number CUR401), this is a wristwatch by Breguet, made in Switzerland, dated 1990. The Atlas places it in the Mechanical Renaissance period (1990 – 2010) of its Wristwatches collection. Materials and techniques recorded by the source: 18k Yellow Gold. Recorded dimensions: Diameter 36 mm. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge
Breguet Classique Moon Phase Power Reserve, reference 3130 in yellow gold. This example was old in September 1990 (as confirmed by Breguet Heritage Department). This rare and early “A-series” features its original guilloché dial and 36mm coin-edge case. The watch has been recently serviced by an independent watchmaker and is full working order. This model is part of a collection famously designed by Daniel Roth during his 14-year tenure as Creative Director and Head Watchmaker at Breguet (whilst under the ownership of the Chaumet brothers).
Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge
Reference: 3130; Metal: 18k Yellow Gold; Movement: Automatic, Cal. 502, Base Cal. 500 DR
Historical context
Mechanical Renaissance (1990 – 2010)
Mechanical watches return as cultural objects; independent watchmaking flourishes.
Mechanical watches returned as cultural and luxury objects. Complications, tourbillons and new materials proliferated; independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour revived artisanal watchmaking; collecting vintage watches became a major field.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Quartz Revolution
Atlas type guide
Calendar, moon-phase and perpetual calendar watches
Calendar complications range from a simple date to the perpetual calendar, which automatically allows for months of different lengths and leap years until 2100. Pocket watches with perpetual calendars were made in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries; Patek Philippe made the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and series production followed in 1941. The annual calendar (Patek Philippe, 1996) needs correction only once a year.
Moon-phase displays use a disc with two moons and 59 teeth advanced daily, approximating the 29.5-day lunation; more precise trains reduce the error to one day in over a century.
What to look for
- Apertures or subsidiary dials for day, date, month and leap year.
- Moon disc under a 'bosom' shaped aperture.
- Recessed correctors on the case band for setting the calendar.
Dating clues
- Triple-date wristwatches: popular c. 1940–1955.
- Perpetual calendar wristwatches: from 1925 (unique) and 1941 (series).
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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