Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moonphase, 1980s

Dealer description — Analog/Shift

Complicated vintage dress pieces — particularly ones finished in precious metals and packing a lot of horological heat for their size — are often overlooked these days. But those in the know will recognize that the craftsmanship, materials, and complexity amount to worlds beyond their current market value, and will snatch them up in advance of an inevitable stylistic turn in their direction! Furthermore, pieces such as this — a yellow gold automatic calendar with moon phase — are a perfect example of Audemars Piguet's design savoir-faire beyond the cherished Royal Oak collection. A Reference 25589BA dating to the 1980s, it’s housed in a 33mm yellow gold case with a mineral crystal, an 18k yellow gold crown, and a stepped bezel characteristic of its era. It features a clean, white enamel dial with painted black 'Roman' indices, a matching yellow gold ‘pencil’ handset, a date indicator at 3:00, a day indicator at 9:00, and a whimsical moonphase aperture at 6:00. The high-grade Calibre 2124 automatic movement drives the day, date and moonphase complications, all set via the winding crown at 3:00. The entire effect is a watch that is not only beautiful but also easy to use. Paired to a black alligator leather strap with a signed, gold-plated pin buckle, this Reference 25589BA has the appearance of a refined gentleman's piece from the 1930s or 40s. It’s a style that’s clearly coming back into vogue — just take a look at current offerings from the likes of Jaeger-LeCoulte and Girard Perregaux — and one you’d be wise to pay attention to. Try this beauty on for size today!