Audemars Piguet Star Wheel, ref. 25720OR, Sold in 2001

Dealer description — Watches of Knightsbridge

Audermars Piguet are known for breaking the rules but of course this is something they’ve only done once all else has been mastered. AP Are known for pushing the boundaries and creating some unusual avant-garde timepieces. The Royal Oak can loosely be seen as pushing the boundaries when you consider it was released during the Quartz crisis. A time when Swiss manufacturers were coming to terms that mechanical watchmaking might be coming to an end. Did this deter AP from making one of of the most expensive luxury steel sports watches the industry had ever seen? No. While the Royal Oak is iconic, I believe what we have here on offer today is equalling intriguing. Nicknamed the “Star Wheel,” the ref. 25720OR has influenced modern brands like Urwerk with its unique layout and thus grown a cult following for its place within AP’s hallowed halls as yet another industry trend that they can lay claim. Launched in 1999, the Audemars Piguet ref. 25720OR “Start Wheel” was a somewhat unusual timepiece in the 90s – especially considering that there was a growing trend toward sports. The “Star Wheel” took its inspiration from the wandering hours complication that date back to the 17th century, the Star Wheel displays the time of day by using three sapphire disks that rotate along the top of the dial. The minutes are displayed linear track on the upper third quadrant of the dial, highlighted by the white backdrop, which contains the a black minute track. Hovering over this track are the satellites which contain the hours. As each hour passes over the chapter ring, on then does the time become apparent, with the next hour slowly taking the previous hours’ spot along the chapter ring. The “Star Wheel” was produced in very limited quantities in various metals, with the rose-gold being among the rarest. It features a stepped bezel, with all-round polished surfaces and a petite wind-crown. The case measures 36mm in diameter and features a beautiful guilloche rose-gold hobnail pattern from 2 through to 10 o’clock. This “Star Wheel” is powered by an automatic cal. 2224, which can be observed via the exhibition case back. The attention to detail from the dial side is carried over through to the movement.

Specifications — Watches of Knightsbridge

Reference: 25720OR; Movement: Self-Winding Calibre 2224; Case diameter: 36mm; Bracelet/strap: Burgundy Leather Strap w/ Pink-Gold Pin Buckle