
Wristwatches · Wristwatch
Zenith Dress Watch 18K YG (Ref. 2219) 'Cal. 120', 1950s
- Maker / attribution
- Zenith (maker)
- Date
- 1950s
- Historical period
- Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
- Country of origin
- Switzerland
- Object type
- Wristwatch
- Stock no.
- ZNTDW2219
- Credit line
- Dealer listing, Craft & Tailored (ZNTDW2219)
- Catalogue title (original)
- 1950s Zenith Dress Watch 18K YG (Ref. 2219) 'Cal. 120' (English)
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Record summary
Catalogued by Craft & Tailored (dealer), Los Angeles (stock number ZNTDW2219), this is a wristwatch by Zenith, made in Switzerland, dated 1950s. The Atlas places it in the Modern Mechanical Horology period (1945 – 1969) of its Wristwatches collection. The record is illustrated with 6 photographs.
Assembled from the source record's structured fields. Dates and attributions are given as the source states them; where a field is missing the Atlas leaves it blank rather than estimating.
Catalogue description
Dealer description — Craft & Tailored
Zenith has created some truly iconic watches over the years, with the El Primero being the most recognizable. But well before the brand built the world's first automatic chronograph, they were already building robust and beautiful timepieces the world over. Some, like this stunning cal. 120 dress watch, were so well made that you'd be hard-pressed to find a watch 50 years younger in as good of shape. This remarkably well-preserved piece features a comfortable, slim, 18K yellow gold case with a seemingly simple silver dial, which comes together to exude sophistication and mid-century style. SPECS Stock # ZNTDW2219 Brand Zenith Style Dress Watch Model 2219 Serial XXXXX Size Men's Material Stainless Steel Dial Satin Silver Millimeters 33 Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap CASE & BRACELET The 18K yellow gold case remains in extremely well-preserved condition, exhibiting minimal wear with no notable evidence of being previously polished. The stepped bezel retains crisp edges and adds a charming depth to the case. The unsigned crown is believed to be original to the watch. The case back retains the factory markings in deep and crisp condition. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc handmade leather strap. DIAL & HANDS The original satin silver dial features gold markers along with a Calatrava-style "beaded" minute track. The dial displays no damage, and the only element of age are some spots of "radium burn", which is most apparent just right of the "Zenith" text. The diminutive radium lume plots located at the tip of each marker are nearly invisible to the naked eye and show a subtle warm patina with varying light degradation present throughout. The original radium yellow gold hands have developed a golden-beige patina and exhibit no degradation under UV light inspection. ACCESSORIES None. The watch is running and keeping time, previous service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.
Historical context
Modern Mechanical Horology (1945 – 1969)
Tool watches for divers, pilots and astronauts; electric watches anticipate the electronic age.
The classic era of the mechanical wristwatch: dive watches, chronographs for motor racing and space flight, GMT watches for jet travel, slim dress watches, automatic calendars, and the rise of Japanese manufacturers alongside Swiss, American, German and Soviet industries.
Read the period in the timelineMore wristwatches from this periodEarlier: Golden Age of Mechanical Watchmaking
Atlas type guide
Wristwatches
Bracelet watches were worn by women from the early nineteenth century — Breguet made one for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810–12 — but the wristwatch only became a man's instrument with military use and aviation in the early twentieth century. Between the World Wars it overtook the pocket watch; the 1920s and 1930s brought rectangular Art Deco cases, water-resistant cases and the first automatic winding systems.
After 1945 the wristwatch became a carrier of identity — dress watches, sports and dive watches, chronographs, calendars — produced by Swiss, American, Japanese, German, Soviet and Chinese industries. The quartz revolution after 1969 and the mechanical renaissance since the 1990s, including the rise of independent watchmakers, complete the story.
What to look for
- The reference number (between the lugs or inside the case back) and serial number, the starting point for dating.
- The calibre: its maker and number are often stamped under the dial or on the bridge.
- Originality of dial, hands and crown — refinished ('redial') dials are common.
- Case material marks: 18K/750, 14K/585, stainless steel, gold-filled, plated.
Dating clues
- Wire-lug cases: before c. 1925.
- Water-resistant screw-down cases: from 1926.
- Quartz movements: from 1969; sapphire crystals widespread after c. 1980.
General guidance written by the Atlas editors about this kind of object. It is not a statement about this particular piece; for that, rely on the source record above and on physical examination.
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